I finally got everything buttoned up [a new roof has kept me away from the garage], and am well pleased with the way it shifts, and finding neutral vastly improved. I still need to address wear in the shift lever pivot bore by boring it out and bushing it. I think a slightly stiffer detent arm spring would also be an improvement, as I think mine is perhaps a little weak from age, or Honda could have used just slightly more tension in their design, if mine is to specs. I'll check that when I get into the engine this winter.
If I can scan a copy of my inverted plate drawing, I will post it. My scanner is a Kodak ESP 9250, and I've really never had call to use it, until now.
I used Shell Rotella Triple Guard 15W-40, that I had on hand for the oil fill, but I'll get some miles on it and change over to Amsoil, as I did in my '01 Kawasaki ZRX1200R. Amsoil made a noticeable difference in the way that bike shifted when I switched to it then, and I'll see how it does in my Super Hawk.
The clutch center
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- honda305.com Member
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- Location: Troy Ohio
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- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:27 pm
- Location: Troy Ohio
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- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 273
- Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 8:27 pm
- Location: Troy Ohio
Dick
Nice job and thanks for sharing. I might just go amd make a couple for those 'forgettful moments" we all have from time to time... :-)
G
Nice job and thanks for sharing. I might just go amd make a couple for those 'forgettful moments" we all have from time to time... :-)
G
Dick Eastman wrote:Honda 305 fixing plate dwg. Allows plate to be installed open side upward, without removing engine/splitting cases. 1/8"mild steel can also be used, but 0-1 is already ground flat, and better mat'l.
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F
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- honda305.com Member
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Ahh, those forgetful moments - I think they're related to Murphy's Law!
Everything working good so far- 1st to neutral or 2nd to neutral working well.
If you make one of these, just make sure the plate remains flat. With the drum groove at .129", and the plate at .125", there is not much room for error. I gage-blocked my drum groove, and it may have had some wear, although it did not appear so. The plate can always be surface ground down less than .125, if need be. Also, the .03 ch or rad is important, as the drum groove diameter is 28mm [1.102"], with a small radius in the corners. The plate dims. clear this by .020"/side.
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Everything working good so far- 1st to neutral or 2nd to neutral working well.
If you make one of these, just make sure the plate remains flat. With the drum groove at .129", and the plate at .125", there is not much room for error. I gage-blocked my drum groove, and it may have had some wear, although it did not appear so. The plate can always be surface ground down less than .125, if need be. Also, the .03 ch or rad is important, as the drum groove diameter is 28mm [1.102"], with a small radius in the corners. The plate dims. clear this by .020"/side.
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