Got a 64 CA77. I've been surfing the forum and I can't get my head wrapped around how to time this thing. This has been a total resto. This is my last thing to do before firing it up. I have a little 12v powered timing light for static timing. Maybe I think about it to much. A step 1 ,2,3,, ect would be nice. I know this is a type II engine, so has a wasted spark on exhaust side. My questions are as follows:
1. My starting point is with engine tdc correct? Compression stroke on 1?
2. Point plate should be positioned where?
3. With the point plate positioned correctly I should then check my point gap at its widest opening for a gap of .014 correct? Adjust accordingly the points using that tiny elliptical screw. (How do I know where the widest point is?)
4. I rotate the Dino clockwise and my points should start to open on the F mark ( since this is a type II engine they should close then open again at 180 from the F mark?)
5. Since my static timing light is a powered 12v I can do this with my switch off and my light should only go on when my points are closed, correct?
Hope I explained it ok and don't sound to stupid Never done anything like this before. I give anesthesia and know physiology inside and out, I should be able to figure this out
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Timing a CA77
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mike in idaho
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A non-powered type test light(ignition switch on ) is the one to use. A 12 volt bulb with a pair of wires attached will work fine also. Set the points gap first, the points plate is moved later to make timing adjustments.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
But doesn't the position of the point plate effect the the point gap which are attached to the plate). Is there like a "middle" spot on where to position the plate first before you go to step two. It would like being working with two variables at one time. The other question I have is what is the mark for on the cam shaft that the points work off of?
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mike in idaho
- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 411
- Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:18 pm
- Location: orofino, idaho
The line on the points cam is to set the valve timing properly when reassembling the head. It really has very little to do with ignition timing.
I couldn't find a procedure for the Dream's on this site, so here's goes:
First, the static timing light is simply a 12V light bulb wired across the points terminal (or spring) and ground. With the ignition on, you should get 12V across the points when they are open, zero when closed. It tells you when the points just begin to open; better than you can see by eye.
1) Position the points plate at the middle of it's travel and snug it down.
2) Turn the crankshaft clockwise to put the rotor on the "F" mark.
3) Adjust the points so they are just closed - this is just to get you in the ballpark.
4) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the points are at their max opening; they will open quickly and stay at max open for a good bit of crank rotation; you can just eyeball it, there isn't one point that you have to catch exactly.
5) At max open, set the points to about .014" and snug them down. Don't be a hero here, those points screws strip pretty easily.
6) Again, Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to put the rotor on the "F" mark.
7) Ignition on
8) Now loosen the points plate and rotate it back and forth until the static timing light flickers between on and off and snug it down again.
9) Turn the crank clockwise - the light should stay on for a while, then go off as the points close, then on as the rotor "F" mark again passes the pointer.
10) If the light goes on too soon, the timing is advanced; too late it is retarded.
11) To advance the timing, rotate the points plate counter-clockwise or open the points gap slightly; you can loosen both screws and use the eccentric, or just bend the ground-side of the points slightly.
12) To retard the timing, do the opposite, rotate the points plate clockwise, or close the points gap slightly.
13) Rotate the crank around a few times to be sure you've got it. Since the points cam has two lobes, you may never get both sides perfect, but you should be able to get close.
14) IGNITION OFF
15) Make sure the points are absolutely clean before, during, and especially after the procedure. I usually spray some brake cleaner and compressed air in there, then draw a business card through the points when closed, if it comes out without a smudge, you're good to go. Kind of like something else I learned a long time ago...
Good Luck!
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I couldn't find a procedure for the Dream's on this site, so here's goes:
First, the static timing light is simply a 12V light bulb wired across the points terminal (or spring) and ground. With the ignition on, you should get 12V across the points when they are open, zero when closed. It tells you when the points just begin to open; better than you can see by eye.
1) Position the points plate at the middle of it's travel and snug it down.
2) Turn the crankshaft clockwise to put the rotor on the "F" mark.
3) Adjust the points so they are just closed - this is just to get you in the ballpark.
4) Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the points are at their max opening; they will open quickly and stay at max open for a good bit of crank rotation; you can just eyeball it, there isn't one point that you have to catch exactly.
5) At max open, set the points to about .014" and snug them down. Don't be a hero here, those points screws strip pretty easily.
6) Again, Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to put the rotor on the "F" mark.
7) Ignition on
8) Now loosen the points plate and rotate it back and forth until the static timing light flickers between on and off and snug it down again.
9) Turn the crank clockwise - the light should stay on for a while, then go off as the points close, then on as the rotor "F" mark again passes the pointer.
10) If the light goes on too soon, the timing is advanced; too late it is retarded.
11) To advance the timing, rotate the points plate counter-clockwise or open the points gap slightly; you can loosen both screws and use the eccentric, or just bend the ground-side of the points slightly.
12) To retard the timing, do the opposite, rotate the points plate clockwise, or close the points gap slightly.
13) Rotate the crank around a few times to be sure you've got it. Since the points cam has two lobes, you may never get both sides perfect, but you should be able to get close.
14) IGNITION OFF
15) Make sure the points are absolutely clean before, during, and especially after the procedure. I usually spray some brake cleaner and compressed air in there, then draw a business card through the points when closed, if it comes out without a smudge, you're good to go. Kind of like something else I learned a long time ago...
Good Luck!
-48