Clutch, Transmission, Drive Chain, Sprockets
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cfloren
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by cfloren » Mon Feb 26, 2007 3:28 pm
I'm rebuilding a '65 CB77. I replaced the 1st gear brass bushing and the steel kick spindle bushing with new parts, and used a set of forks that were only slightly worn. Also used new kick pawl, spring, and pin. Got the cases together last night but found that the transmission doesn't turn so freely. Turning the mainshaft, it will occasionally get hard to turn -- not stuck, just more resistance. I'm wondering if this is just a consequence of the new parts. Should it be a bit tight before it's broken in? It shifts through all the gears just fine and the dogs look like they're engaging properly.
Thanks,
Chris
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joeweir1
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by joeweir1 » Mon Feb 26, 2007 5:29 pm
Did you re-torque the case bolts?May help.
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cfloren
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by cfloren » Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:20 pm
Haven't torqued the case down yet; I was just doing a test-fit before the final sealing and torquing. I will give that a try tonight, thanks for the tip.
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LOUD MOUSE
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by LOUD MOUSE » Mon Feb 26, 2007 6:27 pm
There is no reason the trans changes as you turn shafts.
Have you tightened the Large Bolt behind the clutch?
If you did can you turn the Kick Shaft?
If you have tightened the bolt and the shaft turns I'd remove the bottom and turn the final drive and twist the shift drum and look for binding. .........lm
cfloren wrote:Haven't torqued the case down yet; I was just doing a test-fit before the final sealing and torquing. I will give that a try tonight, thanks for the tip.
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cfloren
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by cfloren » Tue Feb 27, 2007 3:03 am
LOUD MOUSE wrote:There is no reason the trans changes as you turn shafts.
Have you tightened the Large Bolt behind the clutch?
If you did can you turn the Kick Shaft?
If you have tightened the bolt and the shaft turns I'd remove the bottom and turn the final drive and twist the shift drum and look for binding. .........lm
Thanks for the advice...upon closer inspection, it turns out that my countershaft is bent. Radial runout measured 0.012" at the worst. I have another one with only .001" of runout, but the kickstarter splines are pretty chewed up. Western Hills Honda lists the part (kick starter spindle) for $140, p/n 28250-259-000. Unfortunately this is the later design, the earlier is 28251-259-000, which is what I need according to the parts book. Anybody know how to get one?
Also my mainshaft showed about .002" radial runout...should I be concerned or use it as-is?
Thanks
Chris
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LOUD MOUSE
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by LOUD MOUSE » Tue Feb 27, 2007 5:06 am
They are the same part. Honda superceded the numbers. Did the bad one have a groove where the 1/4 inch rollers contact the shaft?. .......lm
cfloren wrote:LOUD MOUSE wrote:There is no reason the trans changes as you turn shafts.
Have you tightened the Large Bolt behind the clutch?
If you did can you turn the Kick Shaft?
If you have tightened the bolt and the shaft turns I'd remove the bottom and turn the final drive and twist the shift drum and look for binding. .........lm
Thanks for the advice...upon closer inspection, it turns out that my countershaft is bent. Radial runout measured 0.012" at the worst. I have another one with only .001" of runout, but the kickstarter splines are pretty chewed up. Western Hills Honda lists the part (kick starter spindle) for $140, p/n 28250-259-000. Unfortunately this is the later design, the earlier is 28251-259-000, which is what I need according to the parts book. Anybody know how to get one?
Also my mainshaft showed about .002" radial runout...should I be concerned or use it as-is?
Thanks
Chris
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cfloren
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by cfloren » Wed Feb 28, 2007 2:50 am
LOUD MOUSE wrote:They are the same part. Honda superceded the numbers. Did the bad one have a groove where the 1/4 inch rollers contact the shaft?. .......lm
The shaft looked allright in that area; can't feel a groove, just some slight discoloration. Thanks for the p/n info, LM. Should I worry about a bit of runout on the mainshaft?
Or just replace the countershaft and check for binding?
Also I think I'll try to straighten this one out. If I mess it up even more, oh well!
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