T4346 key confirmation

nc_rider · Post by **nc_rider** » Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:27 pm

I have a CA77 with matching ignition and steering lock that both have T4346 stamped into them. I bought the key below that also has T4346 stamped into it (it was only $6 inc shipping so I'm not upset with the seller..). The key won't turn the ignition, but if I pull it out about 1/16" from the steering lock then the steering lock will turn. ..... I'm not sure if this key was cut correctly, or maybe the pins in my tumblers are the problem.

Does anyone have a T4346 that they can take a photo of?

thanksmuch!

305 SH · Post by **305 SH** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:40 am

Hope this helps.

nc_rider · Post by **nc_rider** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:54 am

Awesome! Thanks!

305 SH · Post by **305 SH** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 7:32 pm

Might want to be careful just going by the numbers. Even though it looks different from yours, this key is also cut, not an original Honda key. It may or may not be right.

nc_rider · Post by **nc_rider** » Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:33 pm

Yeah, it looks like mine is cut a little more in one section.. in the image below yours is the blue/purple one and mine is red. I'll try adding a little solder to mine to fill it in and see if it works. If so, then I'll make the change permanent..

If anyone else has a T4346 then maybe the correct cut could be confirmed..

Thanks for the help!

rrtccp · Post by **rrtccp** » Fri Feb 18, 2011 9:00 pm

hey nc, just to let you know , my 64 ca 77 key works the same way,, i have to pull it out about 1mm and then it turns great... np

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sun Feb 20, 2011 5:54 am

Most keys are chromed or nickelled brass.

Gently kiss the face of the stop-shoulder with a fine file to remove the plating; then, nip the thumbturn end of the key vertically in a vice (or a vise-grip/pliers with an elastic band around the handles) and slowly heat the stop-shoulder area with a small blowtorch and apply a goodly blob of modern, multicore (pre-fluxed) electrical solder (which is, nowadays, mostly a silver/tin alloy; as opposed to lead/tin of yesteryear). Remove the flame before attempting to apply the solder, or it will just blow it away. Heat gradually until the solder can be applied and flows (not 'blobs' like pigeon-shit) a large enough blob to make up the gap required to make the key turn.

Allow the key to cool, then trim away the sides of the solder by paring with a sharp knife.

Finally, insert the key and test it for turnability; square-up and pare off slivers (or gently file off) from the face of the built-up shoulder until it works smoothly.