light question

yellow60 · Post by **yellow60** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:06 pm

Last weekend was the maiden voyage on my 1965 honda dream that I purchased this fall. Everything started off great it shifted well handled well as expected and even reached an indicated 85 mile per hour. When the sun set I realized that I did not have a functioning rear break light. It worked when I hit the breaks but not when running. All the other electrical worked fine so I tried different positions with the key switch to see if that was it no help. When I got home I realized that the tail light was burned out at least half of it. When I replaced the bulb with a new one the break light would stay on when the key was out of the ignition and drain the battery.
My question is by some chance do I have the incorrect bulb or possible a faulty ignition switch. If I just run it with the burnt out bulb that was in it the battery stays charged and the bulb works when the break peddle is pushed but no running lights. I would like to correct this if possible and it is my last hurdle any help would b e great.

Thanks Adam

jleewebb · Post by **jleewebb** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:22 pm

Assuming a dream is wired similar to a CB, are brake light and taillight wires switched at taillight, and/or switch in "parking" position?

Goodysnap · Post by **Goodysnap** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:36 pm

Brake light switch hung up? staying on? Unplug it at see if your light goes out. The brighter filiment is the brake, see if you can find out whether its the brake or tailight thats staying on is the first step.I know this sound simple but make sure the bulb is in correctly. It is possible to put in 180 off.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:26 pm

Goodysnap wrote:Brake light switch hung up? staying on? Unplug it at see if your light goes out. The brighter filiment is the brake, see if you can find out whether its the brake or tailight thats staying on is the first step.I know this sound simple but make sure the bulb is in correctly. It is possible to put in 180 off.

Goo is right, but you'd normally need to really force it in; and the lampholder and/or the lamp cap pegs would need to be well worn. And it sounds to me like you're removing the key in the PARKING LIGHT position (fully c/w).

yellow60 · Post by **yellow60** » Sat Dec 04, 2010 10:36 pm

e3steve I feel not so smart. I didn't know that there was a park light position I figured that it was like any other modern key that I had seen that full c/w was the off position. If this is correct which I will check on in the morning then everything is working as it should. I have never tried to take the key out in any other position before. Thanks for the help sometimes its the simple thing that are overlooked.

e3steve · Post by **e3steve** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 3:02 am

yellow60 wrote:e3steve I feel not so smart. I didn't know that there was a park light position I figured that it was like any other modern key that I had seen that full c/w was the off position. If this is correct which I will check on in the morning then everything is working as it should. I have never tried to take the key out in any other position before. Thanks for the help sometimes its the simple thing that are overlooked.

No problem, bro'. We all need a little guidance, at times! Keyswitch positions clarified here.