Post
by jensen » Fri Jul 02, 2010 6:12 am
Hi,
I hope you can do something with the info I provide about your cover, and if there is a better and faster way, it’s ok for me, no harm done. Like I said earlier, after dissembling an engine (and cleaning the parts) I check every sealing surface like this, except, (but only if really necessary) the horizontal surfaces of both engine cases.
Do you have a torque wrench ? I suggest people get one (a cheap one will do), to understand the torque which should be applied to bolts and nuts. There are tables with standard torque ranges for all kind of bolts and materials. If I wrench with somebody else, or when I help someone with a bike, I notice that in general people don’t have a clue what kind of torque they have to apply. The m4, m5 and m6 bolts are always over tightened, the m8, m10 and m12 threads are mostly under tightened.
The best example are the cylinder head bolts, in most cases these bolts are way of their initial torque. If using a torque wrench you feel that you torque them down way too much, but it’s not (most cylinder head nuts are under torque). And almost nobody is re- torque them again after 25 to 100 miles.
A lot of people (also on this forum) have problems with their cylinder head packing, it’s leaking oil, blows by etc. In most cases they didn’t use a torque wrench to do a controlled torque down. And they don’t consider even re-torque the nuts after one or two cold – heat-cold – heat cycles.
I dare to say that 50 % of the problems people run into is a torque issue (directly or indirectly).The worst thing is, nobody seems to understand that a top quality grease and a torque wrench are the most important things when wrenching on a bike.
A bad running engine ( but restored and adjusted) is mostly a leaking carburetor, over torque nuts (so the carburetor is warped, air leaks are evident). An over-torque carburetor top (so the carburetor valve sticks in the carburetor), over torque jets (the brass is deformed and leaking extra patrol, so the engine is running to rich), over torque float chamber bolts (so the float chamber is leaking patrol and sucking in air on a place where it’s not aloud and causing uncontrollable pressure differences). On the other side are the mufflers, and I described how the mufflers can be mounted regarding the engine bolts and non leaking mufflers.
These point are leading to an uncontrollable and erratically running engine.
Look at the availability of un-cracked gas tank emblems, and you know what I mean. Over torque it because otherwise these valuable emblems will fall off (locktite is expensive, so why bother use it ?)
Trying to screw metric bolts in jis threads is another example, if it ‘s not going smooth then stop, and see what the problem is. A good and lubricated tread will be smooth, otherwise the tread is not good (damaged or wrong tread), or it’s not lubricated.
About running on a dyno , I wasn’t aware of the fact that the distance between dynoyet centre’s where that big in the US. Having your bike on the stand can be a real eye-opener, and you will learn from it. Next to that, the money involved is mentioned, but I don’t think that is a real issue here. I don’t think that every US citizen is rich, and I know that most bikes are used for hobby only. But it makes me still wonder why people put a lot of money in paint jobs, chrome or re-chroming, lacing wheels, etc. A motorcycle is a cycle driven by a motor (engine), and if you’re serious about riding it, the engine is the most important part on a motorbike.
Most people here on the forum do care more about how the bike looks like (and that’s fine), and some people care also about how good the engine runs (that’s fine too). But sometimes I guess the priority’s are mixed up a bit and money is spend on the least important things, I guess mostly because it’s easier or / and more controllable or more obvious.
That made me wonder "How do people see engines ?" Maybe Bech gave the answer, he says in his thread about the leaking cover, where he titles the engine as a Pandora box.
I think that this is the way most people see engines, as Pandora boxes, and as long the engine runs it’s fine. I always read your thread Scott (with pleasure), and when the bike is finished, you start thinking about the function of the engine. That’s not good or bad (don't feel offended), but says something about the priority in minds of people.
The function of the engine is to run, and as long the oil is not flushing out and it delivers enough power to get you going, it’s alright, isn’t it ?
The function of a mudguard is to guard you from the mud, and as long there are no big holes in it where the mud comes through, it’s alright ? isn’t it ?
The function of a wheel is to roll, and as long it does that, it’s alright isn’t it ?
The function of a chain and sprockets is to transfer the power to the rear wheel , and as long it does that, it’s all right, isn’t it ?
However, that means that (in case of the chain), you should replace it after it snaps, because then it doesn’t function anymore, isn’t it ?
The above statements are not especially written to you Scott, but in general, and are not meant to hurt feelings, nor to be offensive, nor to say that something is more right than other, but I hope it gives something to think and discuss about,
Jensen
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
