Frustration

[cribbs74]

So,

Tore my ignition system apart and took the points and condensor into work where I proceeding to test the condensor units with an o-scope and a capacitance testing apparatus. They both tested out fine, Of course the points themselves just provide a ground when closed and they tested fine. So I went home and tested the coils. across the plus and minus I have 4.3 ohms and an open from either plus or minus to the center conductor. So far so good. For grins I swapped coils from left to right to include associated wiring.

I re-timed the engine and kicked it over a few times and timing was still spot on. It was too late to fire off the engine so I shut things off for the night. I went to make sure my spark plug wire to coil connections were secure and my right coil(formerly the left) was very hot to the touch. The left coil was warm but not near as hot as the right. Just wondering how hot these things are supposed to be. It took me about 20 continuous minutes to do the timing and the key was switched on the entire time. Just wondering, as my left cylinder was the one giving me problems before. I guess I will find out tomorrow whern I fire it off.

[e3steve]

Hmm, duff or intermittent coil is a pissibolity I s'pose but, and this is just an educated guess, I'd say your right points were closed and, therefore, within 'dwell angle' for longer than your left whilst you were clowning around there. Perhaps that's where the motor comes to rest by default, most times you kick it over. When the points are closed the coil is energised and, from memory, draws around 2.3A which, from a healthily-charged battery at circa 12.8V (it won't be quite that healthy now!), equates to around 29W of heat. I'll bet you can't grab your stoplight bulb after it's been on for a few minutes, either; and that's only 21W. OK, the bulb doesn't have the luxury of being bathed in oil (oo-er, missus), but the oil cooling the ign coil will exchange that heat to the outside casing eventually, after a 20-odd minute spell of not actually running.

When the motor is running, the dwell angle (the period of time that the points are closed) is happening so fast that the coil will take much longer to get that warm; that, coupled with the resultant forward-motion airflow when you ride.

Christ, don't I waffle on? Anyway, I don't reckon there's a problem with either coil, but you could recharge the battery somewhat, swap 'em about again (after you've tried her out in the present config) and reproduce your clowning session and see if the hotter coil moves to the left side?

I've scribed here all the things that you already know really, Ron, as you're in 'the electrical game' at much more than entry-level; we all just need reminding of things sometimes to give us a 'lightbulb moment'! No pun.

The foregoing use of words may also help others who don't habitually dabble in our field.

Keep the faith!

PS: speaking of words, anyone heard from wordman, or know how his magnificent resto's going?

[mike69]

You stated that the cam points lobe has an eigth in. of play.There should be near ZERO play! You're dealing in thousanths of an in. in your points an 1/8 in. is a huge amount of play.. Old Chevys with 6 cyl. engines had a problem with dist. shaft bushings going bad. Every time you check the timing it would be different.

[cribbs74]

Try and keep this short.

Verified integrity of ignition circuit
verified correct timing

Turned the key kicked it over....BANG!!!!! 6 inch flame out of the bottom pipe. So that's easy timing is off right?

Checked timing, still spot on checked it again and again and again. still spot on. What gives????

I have good compression, spark and fuel. The engine should run.

e3steve, I haven't been able to check the coil yet although I am sure that it is what you said, I was thinking that when I wrote my last post just a little unsure of myself. I plugged a 5 watt dummy load into a 15W output once . Got a second degree burn from that not to mention destroyed the load.

Mike69 I may have been a little off on my measurment of cam freeplay it's more like 2-3mm I went to Canadian schools learned the metric system and I am horrible at making standard measurements.

So my question is should the pointer on the points lobe be pointed straight down or in line with the cylinders when the rotor is on F? mine is in line with the cylinders. Wondering if something is up with the cam sprocket internally.

Also with my vice grips on the rotor I can rock it back and forth quite a bit before the points cam starts to move.

[e3steve]

Ron, no wonder you're frustrated; something's amiss, obviously. Yes, the points' cam pointer should be pointing downwards when timing the right pot. Quote: "Turn crank with Vise Grips so "F" is in line with pointer at rotor area. (The mark on point cam should be down. If it is up. Crank engine 360 degrees.)" from Ed's recipe.

PM me your email and I'll send you a copy of Ed's Tuneup Recipe which was kindly sent to me, since it no longer seems to be found under FAQs.

Good luck & regards,

Steve

[LOUD MOUSE]

Make sure the chain adjuster is adjusted in.
I saw your statement below. ...............lm

Try and keep this short.

Verified integrity of ignition circuit
verified correct timing

Turned the key kicked it over....BANG!!!!! 6 inch flame out of the bottom pipe. So that's easy timing is off right?

Checked timing, still spot on checked it again and again and again. still spot on. What gives????

I have good compression, spark and fuel. The engine should run.

e3steve, I haven't been able to check the coil yet although I am sure that it is what you said, I was thinking that when I wrote my last post just a little unsure of myself. I plugged a 5 watt dummy load into a 15W output once . Got a second degree burn from that not to mention destroyed the load.

Mike69 I may have been a little off on my measurment of cam freeplay it's more like 2-3mm I went to Canadian schools learned the metric system and I am horrible at making standard measurements.

So my question is should the pointer on the points lobe be pointed straight down or in line with the cylinders when the rotor is on F? mine is in line with the cylinders. Wondering if something is up with the cam sprocket internally.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Also with my vice grips on the rotor I can rock it back and forth quite a bit before the points cam starts to move.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[mike69]

I know what you mean about converting the metric system to in. i'm lost when it comes to that also. Have you checked the timing with a strobe light while the engine is running? See if the timing is stable or fluctuates. That way you can eliminate a timing problem. The Dream i'm currently working on was running badly after I replaced the cyl. head was backfiring etc. I checked the valve adj. and found 2 valve adj. lock nuts were loose. Adjusted all valves and it runs great. If I could only figure out the kick starter problem!