Adjusting Clutch :: Very Stiff at Lever

[ericmanuel]

Hey guys & girls,
I have recently replaced a broken clutch fixing adjuster and clutch cable. Everything was fine then lever started to get harder and harder to pull.

So obviously I have a few questions.
1. Did I route the cable correctly?
2. Did I installed the fixing adjuster correctly?
3. Did I loose the ball bearing in the clutch adjuster?

I will answer number 3 on Saturday when I take the cover off to replace the kick starter seal and hopefully get this sorted out.

Here to hoping your collective wisdom can shed some light on my situation.

ericmanuel

[rrietman]

I have never seen one of those adjuster clamps break. maybe just a fluke, but how does the side cover look? any sign of galling where the adjuster sits? If you lost the ball you wouldn't be able to adjust the clutch to work at all. A hard lever might just be lube? pull the cover tho and look for signs of vibration coming thru the pushrod. you might have some clutch housing damage. anything in the oil?
Good luck
Randy

[ericmanuel]

I removed side cover to ensure that the ball bearing was in place and everything is fine and greased with the clutch adjuster.

• 1. I am assuming I have the cable routed correctly and its not binding(its a new cable). Have not been able to find a routing diagram.
  2. The is only one way to install the fixing adjuster, so I got that right.
  3. I have a ball bearing in place. Removed, regressed and, replaced it.

Tomorrow's plan is to remove the left side cover and make sure everything is working as it should on both sides.

Maybe one of clutch spring screws backed out and the clutch plate is not getting even pressure causing my problem.

Thanks
ericmanuel

Hey guys & girls,
So obviously I have a few questions.
1. Did I route the cable correctly?
2. Did I installed the fixing adjuster correctly?
3. Did I loose the ball bearing in the clutch adjuster?

[redblk63]

This is NOT the correct clutch cable routing. I use it to get the maximum bend radius for the cable, and it seems to reduce the effort a bit. I put a loop in a coat hanger wire to hold the cable to the carb mount stud so it would not flop around.

As I said, not the correct routing, but it works for me. In fact, you may notice several non-standard items on this bike, but in its defense it does get ridden!

Larry

[Nick]

A poor quality cable will never work well no matter what you do. Is it a genuine Honda part? If not, who made it? There's a huge difference between a cable made with quality components and one made with cheap junk.

Are you using stock honda levers? If non-stock, and if the lever ration is different, that can make the lever hard to pull.

Here's a common problem, the lever in the right side cover must be at a bit more than 90° to have the proper leverage on the cam/gear thingy,

And of course, cable must be routed so there are no sharp bends. Grease at lever pivot point and grease on cable end at lever.

The best cables use stainless steel wire. Teflon liners are also nice.

If all else fails, get a modern cable from a modern dirt bike or something and silver-solder your cable fittings onto it. No sense wasting time and money with poorly made junk.

Or, send a stock Honda cable to Barnett or one of the cable makers and have them duplicate it for you.

If a non-teflon-liner cable, molybdenum cable lube works well. Don't use oil or WD. Diesel fuel is good though.

Either way, don't waste money on junk that looks like stock but is actually far worse.

[Snakeoil]

I know that you said you checked the side cover area and greased the adjuster. But to be sure, did you unscrew the actual releast mechanism and clean and grease that big, coarse, acme threaded release assembly?

Another area to check is the slug that fits into the handlebar lever. If it is tight it will bind in the lever hole. It should be a loose, but not sloppy fit and be free to rotate. It should be lubed as well.

Lastly, put some motor oil down the cable. It is a slow, one drop at a time process. After you get some oil down it, I blow the oil thru the cable with compressed air. If you are unsure of the inner condition (I know it is new, but new does not mean good) you could flush it out with WD40 or mineral spirits and blow it out with compressed air. If what comes out the other end is anything but clear, keep flushing until it comes out clear. Then lube with motor oil.

regards,
Rob

[Tim Allman]

A syringe works well for injecting lube into the cable. A glass one is best (if you can find one) because the rubber on the plunger of a plastic one will swell after use. They are cheap and easily available however.