no gears except first and neutral...

[nander]

Yeah, thanks.
Western Hills Honda is being unresponsive at the moment...

[nander]

Got a new bolt and stopper guide (thanks Davomoto). Replacement of those parts seemed straightforward.

I am just wondering if there is a technique to setting up the gearshift arm. Are it's "jaws" meant to index the tabs on the end of the gearshift drum in any particular way? When I slip it into place the two arms don't seem to lock onto anything in particular.

Also, just for my own edification, can someone please explain what the purpose of those tabs on the washer behind the 20mm crank nut serve? Where possible should they be bent into the 4 slots on the nut (that's how it seemed to be set up when I dismantled it)?

nander

[FAST FRED]

FRED, ITS CALLED A 20MM LOCK WASHER AND YOU ARE CORRECT. YOU BEND ONE OR MORE OF THE TABS UP THAT LINE UP WITH THE SLOTS IN THE SLOTED LOCK NUT THATS ON THE END OF THE CRANK.



FAST FRED

[davomoto]

Corrrect, the shift arm goes on either side of the shift drum, and one side or the other engages the shift drum when you shift the bike. It shouldn't be touching anything when installed.

davomoto

[LOUD MOUSE]

The parts align in such a way that only one tab will fit into the nut correctly.
A for sure caution is to be sure the washer has the cone toward the engine and the nut has the champered (rounded) side toward the washer. ..................lm

FRED, ITS CALLED A 20MM LOCK WASHER AND YOU ARE CORRECT. YOU BEND ONE OR MORE OF THE TABS UP THAT LINE UP WITH THE SLOTS IN THE SLOTED LOCK NUT THATS ON THE END OF THE CRANK.



FAST FRED

[nander]

So, I've attached a photo of the new and old bits. Having only seen the old flattened washer (bottom left) I was not expecting the cone shaped replacement I got in the mail. Nor the single tab on the inside.

Looking at the new parts, it made sense that the bevel of the nut must match the shape of the washer. Just to make sure I am understanding correctly though, I have mocked up the fitment in the bottom right corner of the photo. The new washer is sitting on the bevel of the new 20mm nut.

And, LM I think I read on another thread that you advise putting the nut back on as tight as you can get it by banging in the reverse direction with the chisel. Correct? Any additional advice - I'd hate to break or damage something.

Oh, and with the non-tabbed washer in the photo (top right) was trying to show that there is some concavity to the part. Were these flat when new or did they come with a slightly dished shape to fit the cone of the tabbed washer?

Funny how so many questions can arise from just a few little bits. Thanks for all the comments gentlemen.

nander

[LOUD MOUSE]

Washer first, lock washer then nut. ................lm

So, I've attached a photo of the new and old bits. Having only seen the old flattened washer (bottom left) I was not expecting the cone shaped replacement I got in the mail. Nor the single tab on the inside.

Looking at the new parts, it made sense that the bevel of the nut must match the shape of the washer. Just to make sure I am understanding correctly though, I have mocked up the fitment in the bottom right corner of the photo. The new washer is sitting on the bevel of the new 20mm nut.

And, LM I think I read on another thread that you advise putting the nut back on as tight as you can get it by banging in the reverse direction with the chisel. Correct? Any additional advice - I'd hate to break or damage something.

Oh, and with the non-tabbed washer in the photo (top right) was trying to show that there is some concavity to the part. Were these flat when new or did they come with a slightly dished shape to fit the cone of the tabbed washer?

Funny how so many questions can arise from just a few little bits. Thanks for all the comments gentlemen.

nander