Clutch lever very tight

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:55 pm

Hmmm. I don't think that's what's happening. 2nd was the most temperamental to get to. 3rd and 4th came rather easily afterwards. I'll try giving that as much room as possible and see if it helps.

toastyhamster wrote:That's what I was thinking - that gear lever looks quite near the footrests for upshifts. I've been assembling mine today and due to a bit of wear on the gear lever I have to have it quite a bit lower or I can't get second. Seems comfortable enough sat on the bike - if I see a NOS lever I'd be tempted.

Your clutch problem is odd but I think you have to start with the basics, pity I've just assembled mine or I'd measure everything up for you.

davomoto · Post by **davomoto** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 5:48 pm

I second Bwesky on the lever hitting the footpeg. It looks like it's adjusted prettyy high in the pic. Remove the aluminum lifter piece, and polish it on a buffing wheel. If you have a small hone, clean up the hole in the side cover as well. It shouldn't spin really easilly, but you should be able to turn it with a large screwdriver. The aluminum lifter has a channel in it for the grease to follow to the hole.

davomoto

Carl1951 · Post by **Carl1951** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:42 pm

Spargett,
The problem appears to be in the adjuster and the clutch "lifter". The adjuster should turn freely in the engine cover when the 10mm locking bolt is loosened; the lifter should always move freely on the adjuster as you pull the clutch lever. Everything else you've done looks good (ball bearing between flat-end of lifter rod and lifter; round end of lifter rod into the clutch assembly). It's the cam action between the lifter and the adjuster, as the cable pulls it through its range of motion, that disengages the clutch (the lifter pushes the ball bearing/lifter rod, the round-end of the lifter rod pushes what my old shop manual calls the "clutch lifter joint piece" which inturn disengages the pressure plate).

To adjust the clutch, I've always "lengthened" the cable using the adjuster at the handle bar lever and the adjuster on top of the engine case where the cable enters the engine. Then, using a blade screw driver, snug the adjuster against the lifter rod and tighten the 10mm locking bolt. Next, dial in the appropriate amount of "play" using the handle bar lever adjuster and/or the cable-to-case adjuster by "shortening" the cable.

It sound as though the lifter is in the "disengage position" due to the fact that you have pound the adjuster into the engine case. This explains why the lever moves freely until you tighten the engine cover; because of the position of the adjuster, tightening the cover is essentially the same as pulling in the clutch lever.

I haven't posted too often, but I've owned my '66 CB77 for approximately 42 years (on and off - on again now) and have had it apart many, many times over the years.

Carl1951 · Post by **Carl1951** » Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:50 pm

I forgot to add that when adjusting the clutch, always start with the lifter backed as far away from the lifter rod as possible (loosen the 10mm locking bolt and turn the adjuster counter clockwise as far as it will go). Then tighten the case, snug the adjuster and fine-tune by adjusting the cables.

chico · Post by **chico** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:23 am

Scott, you have to pull left case off to fix clutch problem. If the push rod was put in wrong what else was put in wrong. Don't be forcing, hammering or prying stuff, your just going to break something. now get to work and fix the thing, and don't forget to tell us what a tool the P.O. was when you find the problem.

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:04 pm

SOLVED

So I had the fortune of speaking with 'Loud Mouse' directly on the phone yesterday, while out with the bike. He was very patient with me walking me through step by step.

1. He had me hammer out the adjuster piece and go around it with a flat file. With some refining, that took care of the tight fit. Put a light amount of lubrication on and popped it back on. I was now able to slide it in with hand pressure and turn smoothly but snuggly with a large screwdriver.

2. With the adjuster correctly alighting to the notch in the case, the thread lifter fell into place perfectly. With the arm pointing at about 7 o'clock.

3. "Screw both cable adjusters IN as far as they will go. Loosen the bolt (10mm head) and with a large screw driver turn the adjuster right/left/right (squeezing the lever in between these) then move it back (left) 1/8 inch and tighten the bolt.

- - - - - - -

It seems that the main issue came down to the clutch adjuster not being properly aligned, or adjustable.

I imagine this what largely contributed to the ball and rod not fitting together properly. That, and the fact that PO had the rod installed backwards AND no ball bearing. (Which I was able to pick up at a local Honda car dealer for $0.99 - I bought three) I made the mistake of putting too much confidence in the delegation to labor to his "Honda mechanic" in Auburn, CA. Another of many lessons learned: Always treat everything with a healthy level of skepticism if you're not well versed in the area of trouble already. I used a completely incorrect example as my initial point of reference.

Thank you to everyone for your help in troubleshoot and therefor educating.

Spargett · Post by **Spargett** » Fri Dec 11, 2009 5:10 pm

Follow up:

My existing cable is far too long for what's required of a low-bar setup. I purchased what was said to be a low bar clutch cable, but is obviously too short. So I'm in the market for the "correct" size whatever that may be.

The bike shifts better than it ever has with a rather smooth level that requires a reasonable amount of force.

Though I feel like it could still be better. The shifting, albeit dependable and consistent, is rather clunky at times and has missed a few gears every now and then moving between 1st and 2nd.

Does anyone have any recommendation for adjusting the linkage on the shifter? Would this adjust better results or is it a combo of the improper cable length, most likely old clutch disks, and the stock clutch springs instead of the "425"s? All of which I attend to address as soon as possible.