Fresh meat!

[joeweir1]

I see your counter shaft bushing is shot.

[rustywrench]

Loudo,
PM me about parts you may need for this repair.job. I may have what you need since I have quite a few eng/trans with useable parts. Not only that but it wouldn't hurt a bit to network between us since we live close enough to make a difference. RW

[Loudo]

I have parts coming in from various sources. LM, attached is a photo of the kickstart shaft at the area where the roller bearings reside. It looks pretty good to me. I also note the little brass ring that came out with the 14mm brass bushing in the photo posted previously. Since I don't know anything I thought this little ring was a part, but now it appears it was simply the raised center part of the bushing that had sheared off in one piece. Is this how everyone else sees it also?

[LOUD MOUSE]

The shaft looks good and ya will need another brass bushing. .........lm

I have parts coming in from various sources. LM, attached is a photo of the kickstart shaft at the area where the roller bearings reside. It looks pretty good to me. I also note the little brass ring that came out with the 14mm brass bushing in the photo posted previously. Since I don't know anything I thought this little ring was a part, but now it appears it was simply the raised center part of the bushing that had sheared off in one piece. Is this how everyone else sees it also?

[Loudo]

Parts are trickling in....I have the 14mm bushing and the offset cotters. Speaking of the latter, I had read with interest the Service Bulletin Information section on offset cotters on p. 20 of Bill Silver's "Restoration Reference Guide." This section noted the second gear disengagement problem and suggested the use of offset cotters. The two parts listed are cotters for 0.5mm offset (23941-259-305) and 1.0mm offset (23943-259-305). I ordered four of each since they're still available. They came in packages clearly marked (by someone) with these part numbers. In the attached photo, the 1.0mm offset cotter is on the left and the 0.5mm offset cotter is on the right. I can see the purpose of the offset cotter on the 1.0mm part...the offset shown is matched by an equivalent offset on the other side of the cotter where it fits in its mount. However, the 0.5mm offset cotter is flat on both sides and appears the same thickness as the stock cotter. I don't see how this accomplishes any "offset" at all. If it were thicker than the stock cotter, then at least I could say that its role in preventing gear disengagement is that it's taking up any slack where the cotter rests in its slot. But this seems pretty sketchy. Is it possible I was sent a stock cotter and that there was a part number confusion? I'd be interested in if anyone's actually seen a 0.5mm offset cotter and if it's completely flat on both sides.

[Loudo]

I've sorted through the gears from the used transmissions I have and put together the best pieces, did some test fitting in the case. I was puzzling over how the kickstarter works as it wasn't obvious what keeps the kickstart pawl in its place after the engine starts. So I searched "pawl" on this forum and came up with the answer which is that the large bolt through the shift drum guide performs the function of pushing the pawl inward after the motor starts. The attached photo shows this bolt and it's worn at the end, I'm assuming this is where it contacts the pawl. I suppose I should replace this bolt..I'm going to smooth the raw edge at least. I never use my kickstarter so I don't want to spend a whole lot of effort here...I just don't want any noises from the kickstart assembly when the motor's running.

The other thing of concern is the small roller bearings between the lay shaft and 4th gear are not just dropping in...when I get them all in, there is no play. In fact, they're kind of tight and the gear doesn't move freely. Is this something someone else has experienced? I'm loath to button up the transmission with any question marks like this hanging out.

Also, I note much spilled ink in the past concerning the shimming of the transmission shafts. I have a goodly amount of play in both shafts...probably in the neighborhood of 1 mm. If I were to shim the shafts, would it be advisable to shim on both sides or just one side, and if so which side? I'd be interested in the opinions of others on this topic.

[e3steve]

....I'm assuming this is where it contacts the pawl. I suppose I should replace this bolt..I'm going to smooth the raw edge at least. I never use my kickstarter so I don't want to spend a whole lot of effort here...I just don't want any noises from the kickstart assembly when the motor's running.

Don't sod about, Neil; do it, do it right, do it once! Or would you prefer to make dropping the motor & pulling it apart a monthly/trimestral hobby?

The other thing of concern is the small roller bearings between the lay shaft and 4th gear are not just dropping in...when I get them all in, there is no play. In fact, they're kind of tight and the gear doesn't move freely.

Ditto above. Wait for an LM-type response.... or PM him.

If I were to shim the shafts, would it be advisable to shim on both sides or just one side, and if so which side?

Do you have Bill's red Honda Repair Guide or CD? From what I've read you need to engage the appropriate gear and shim so that the dogs (the castellated protruberances which engage with those of the neighbouring cog on the same shaft) engage fully with no pre-load.

Let me know and I'll scan the info.