Dick
When you reassemble the crank it is better to support it on the center mains when truing. This gives you a clearer picture of what's going on with the outer shafts.
Alao you can check the center section for runout by checking any swash of the wheels.
When you have finally trued the assembly, you'll realize that it behaves like a big lump of jello. If you bump one end to true it, the other end will likely move, also. When you press on teh outer bearing(s) make sure that the web is fully supported as you could put the alignment out just smacking the bearing in to place.
G
left hand crankshaft bearing
Thanks, Graham. I pulled the Dream crank out today, and it looks very good - no corrosion/rust/pitting anywhere; bearings and rods look and feel good. Although the Dream crank has both big ends in same plane, the component parts appear to be identical - would seam Honda would do this for economical reasons, just install crank rods 180 apart for the CB/CL engines. Is there any reason that the dream crank could not be reconfigured upon re-assembly to replicate the CB? The only problem I see would be the splines possibly not wanting a 180 degree index, although it is an even number. I just have to make sure the stator side of the crank [with the key slot] is the side that remains the same to the cam sprocket, and the clutch side wheel/crank pin is the one that gets indexed 180. Any thoughts on this? I can't widen the beams on my press, as you did - they are welded. I will have to get some steel risers to bridge the beams. I'm also looking at how to press the out board wheels off [supporting the wheel while the ram engages the crank pin] - half of the wheel is machined, while the portion under the pin is stepped - I need to support it close to the pin under the non-machined surface to eliminate any stress on the ass'y. Appreciate your photos - they are a big help. If you get time to call while you're here, please do. Thanks, Dick
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