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1965 Honda CP77 — Ulsan Metro City, Rep. Korea
Restored with original parts — Owner: J. Doe
Best way to enlarge small ends
Thanks conbs! was wondering the same things myself. All I've ever read is that the oversize pins are available to take care of the problem. Nothing on the procedure. As "W" once said "its not rocket surgery" and I believe I will prevail... Thanks to Jensen for explaining what to look out for. Anyone have any old rods to practice on?
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jensen
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Hi,
I wish you good luck, the Honda part number of the (adjustable) reamer is 1000406-8. This reamer wasn't part of the standard toolbox, you can use any adjustable reamer,
Jensen
I wish you good luck, the Honda part number of the (adjustable) reamer is 1000406-8. This reamer wasn't part of the standard toolbox, you can use any adjustable reamer,
Jensen
Last edited by jensen on Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
assembly of Japanese motorcycles requires great peace of mind (Pirsig)
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LOUD MOUSE
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LOUD MOUSE
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- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
- Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS
I think ya have made several statements and I've made mine.
I think I am able to ream correctly enough to acquire a tolerance to spec.
I've known those who ream the piston all to loose as they think the pin should rotate as the engine runs.
Tough to fix that.
Also those who press/force the pin into the piston and aren't aware that the piston may crack with heat over time.
Careful as ya go and things can be OK. .... ..........lm
I think I am able to ream correctly enough to acquire a tolerance to spec.
I've known those who ream the piston all to loose as they think the pin should rotate as the engine runs.
Tough to fix that.
Also those who press/force the pin into the piston and aren't aware that the piston may crack with heat over time.
Careful as ya go and things can be OK. .... ..........lm
jensen wrote:Hi Ed,
It's just an advice, and you give also your advice, there was a time that I would start a discussion right now, but I got wiser,
Jensen
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mike in idaho
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A light push fit, at room temperature, is what I would strive for. If you clamped both rods between two pieces of bar stock, to keep them in the same plane, and used a piloted reamer with the pilot in the opposite rod end you might be able to keep things more or less square. Seems like a lot of work just to end up with a bunch of non-standard parts in the engine, I would look for a pair of rods first.
'65 YG1
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
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LOUD MOUSE
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- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
- Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS
The rods were not made available to the US.
Ya had/have to buy a new crank assy if you loose a rod for some reason. (not many places can disassemble/assemble a crank these days around here)
I pretend the work I'm doing is on a single cylinder engine as there is always a couple of THO play at the big end and I dress the small ends one at a time. .........lm
Ya had/have to buy a new crank assy if you loose a rod for some reason. (not many places can disassemble/assemble a crank these days around here)
I pretend the work I'm doing is on a single cylinder engine as there is always a couple of THO play at the big end and I dress the small ends one at a time. .........lm
mike in idaho wrote:A light push fit, at room temperature, is what I would strive for. If you clamped both rods between two pieces of bar stock, to keep them in the same plane, and used a piloted reamer with the pilot in the opposite rod end you might be able to keep things more or less square. Seems like a lot of work just to end up with a bunch of non-standard parts in the engine, I would look for a pair of rods first.