For safe daytime riding there's no real substitute for a dipped headlight beam. However, we owners of the older Hondas with their decrepit charging systems know that, although the charging current is boosted whilst the headlight switch is on, the available headroom to keep the battery charged sufficiently -- especially in traffic or during stop / start riding -- is pretty poo(r)!
No doubt many have replaced their crappy celenium-diode rectifiers with a more efficient silicon-diode (or even Schottky-diode) rectifier. As I've posted before, modern rectifiers will attenuate the voltage from the dynamo much less than older, heat-producing celenium recs; this additional available voltage directly increases the charge output. Even so, the charging is still not great for short rides. Oh God, I've strayed off the subject path again.....
I've obtained and fitted a 12v/5w halogen front parking light. Now, a halogen lamp has a 50-70% whiter (colour temperature), brighter (candelas) light output, making it reasonably acceptable for daytime riding, even in sunlight. These are available from BMW dealerships, as they have been fitted for many years within some BMW interior (dome) and map-reading lights. Alternatively, they are available online from RS Components -- www.rswww.com -- , part# 370-3077, or from many yacht chandleries as a replacement part for Aqua Signal chart reading lights.
A slight mod to the wiring connections in the headlamp can also help with keeping the battery up: remove the front parking light bullet connector from the parking light circuit and plug it into the ignition circuit (black with white ring); this move brings the front parking light on with the ignition. There's really no need for the tail light to be on for daytime riding.
The other option, which most of us probably use, is to run the headlight once the motor's going. This method works well also with a halogen front parker as it avails the parking lights (front and rear) whilst using the centre position on the dimmer switch, and either headlight beam is quickly ready at the flick of your left thumb for when navigating between slow moving queues. Using this method of I'M HERE approach-warning to other road users is probably marginally safer, but keep a keen eye on the battery's electrolyte level, as the charge rate is up and there's no other regulation other than the heat produced by the rectifier.
Day riding light idea
Day riding light idea
The standard 35/35 that came with. I'm going to convert to an HID when I've finished spending on it this year! I'm not particulary fussed about the bike not being 'show', as it's a hybrid anyway -- aftermarket winkers, CB72 frame -- and HIDs are stunningly white if you get the right colour temp. I think 6500K is favourite.
HIDsHigh Intesity Discharge lamps run at about GBP£100 per. www.hids4u.co.uk
Link herewith for bikes http://www.hids4u.co.uk/store/product.p ... =44&page=1 There's no twin-filament available, as they are discharge lamps and don't have 'em. Dipped to main beam is achieved with a miniature solenoid that shifts the juxtapose of the lamp envelope, thus altering the focal length. The beam unit has to be replaced, obviously, to an H4 type to accept the lamp. I'm not sure if they make a shifting H1, H3 or H7.
I've been writing bollox again (see above post)!
It turns out that the H4 bi-xenon HID from hids4u.co.uk is twin 'filament', although how this is achieved with a discharge lamp I have yet to see. Also, their H1, H3 & H7 are pure, straightforward single 'filament' HID conversions. There are other manufacturers that market a 'shifting' H4 lamp, but hids4u isn't one of those. I'm gonna convert once I'm up & running (and I find an H4 beam unit to fit) and will post the results along with project pics.
LightingGuys, take a look here (thanks to Phil-UK for providing Paul Goff's name); a very informative lighting site:
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffybulbs.htm
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