Cyllinder sleeve replacement tips

[Nick]

I'm about to press out a bad sleeve from my 305 and replace it with a sleeve from another 305. Aside from 'heat and press', any tips appreciated.
Once the sleeve is pressed far enough out so that the lower section of the sleeve is flush with the cylinder's lower mating surface, is it necessary to use a press piece of some kind to press it the rest of the way out?

Tanks

[Tim Allman]

My limited experience (N=1) tells me that you should have an easy time. I degreased the block thoroughly so as not to fill my oven and house with oil fumes. I heated the oven to 175℃ (350℉) and left the block in for about 1/2 hour. Less time would probably have been enough. Taking it to my workbench I supported it upside down on pieces of 2x4 so that the liners were not supported and tapped the liners with a soft hammer from the top. Each dropped out easily on the first tap.

When I installed new liners I checked the rebate at the top of the cylinders for dirt and reheated it as before. I supported it on the 2x4s leaving the cylinder holes clear and dropped in the two room temperature sleeves. They settled nicely, just flush with the aluminum. They should not be proud of the aluminum surface, as this can lead to head gasket oil leaks, but an inset of no more than about 0.1mm (0.004") seems to be alright.

It turns out that the job was much easier than I feared.

[Nick]

Thanks.
My experience was the same. I went to all the trouble to set the cylinder up in a press, heated the cylinder with a butane torch and the sleeves slid out with minimum pressure. Live and learn.