What is this Sound?

[e3steve]

Cool! Great shot from Joe! Did you centrepop the screws' outer edges after tightening? They'll work loose again otherwise. Even threadlocker can let go there, apparently.

[markymark2]

centrepop the screws?

please explain

[e3steve]

centrepop the screws?

please explain

Centrepopping (UK-Eng), center-popping (US-Eng), verb: The fine and delicate art of using a centrepunch to pein the outer edge of a screw-head, thus preventing said screw working loose.

On the clutch ass'y there's a slot, radially-ground, across each of the apertures:

• Apply some Loctite or other thread locker -- a small drop -- to each screw's thread and wind the screws up tight (or to the specified torque of 3.615[!]ft-lb if you're lucky enough to possess an appropriate titchy torque wrench).
  Place the rotor on a wooden block (to prevent damage to it or to the surface upon which you're working) on a concrete floor or other suitable solid datum-level surface that will absorb the ensuing impact.
  Position the tip of a centrepunch about 1mm from the outer edge of each screw head and in line with the slots in the clutch ring's screw apertures, and pein each screw head twice (once at each edge) with a reasonably heavy hammer; the edges of the screw head will be displaced into each slot.

The rationale behind such engineering is aimed at preventing the screws working loose again.

NB: do not attempt to carry out this procedure using valuable antique furniture as a workbench! This antisocial practice may prove to be the cause of divorce, exclusion from the abode and/or physical deformity inflicted by an irate 'lady of the house'.

Incidentally guys, I found the reason behind my starter clutch's inability to grab: the rollers are worn down. They are described in the Shop Manual as "10.2 X 11.5 roller"; mine have worn down to 9.8, 9.8 & 9.7mm diameter. BTW: they shouldn't be dry, but smeared with silicon grease to prevent this friction-wear. Silicon grease is used because it won't melt away, nor will it become more viscous with colder temperatures.

[markymark2]

thanks for the description, is this all explained in the Bill Silver's Books or just aquired knowledge?

i will be pulling it out to fix it right later today..

thanks again

mark

[LOUD MOUSE]

HONDA left those rollers dry because any sort of slickum will gather dirt/dust and become an abrasive or allow the rollers to slip on the sprocket area. When the engine is running the rollers are
thrown out away from the sprocket so they don't wear when the engine is running. .................lm

centrepop the screws?

please explain

Centrepopping (UK-Eng), center-popping (US-Eng), verb: The fine and delicate art of using a centrepunch to pein the outer edge of a screw-head, thus preventing said screw working loose.

On the clutch ass'y there's a slot, radially-ground, across each of the apertures:

• Apply some Loctite or other thread locker -- a small drop -- to each screw's thread and wind the screws up tight (or to the specified torque of 3.615[!]ft-lb if you're lucky enough to possess an appropriate titchy torque wrench).
  Place the rotor on a wooden block (to prevent damage to it or to the surface upon which you're working) on a concrete floor or other suitable solid datum-level surface that will absorb the ensuing impact.
  Position the tip of a centrepunch about 1mm from the outer edge of each screw head and in line with the slots in the clutch ring's screw apertures, and pein each screw head twice (once at each edge) with a reasonably heavy hammer; the edges of the screw head will be displaced into each slot.

The rationale behind such engineering is aimed at preventing the screws working loose again.

NB: do not attempt to carry out this procedure using valuable antique furniture as a workbench! This antisocial practice may prove to be the cause of divorce, exclusion from the abode and/or physical deformity inflicted by an irate 'lady of the house'.

Incidentally guys, I found the reason behind my starter clutch's inability to grab: the rollers are worn down. They are described in the Shop Manual as "10.2 X 11.5 roller"; mine have worn down to 9.8, 9.8 & 9.7mm diameter. BTW: they shouldn't be dry, but smeared with silicon grease to prevent this friction-wear. Silicon grease is used because it won't melt away, nor will it become more viscous with colder temperatures.

[e3steve]

Thanks Ed. I sort of thought about that, but I also thought there shouldn't be any dusty crap in there really to cling to any lube either. I/we value your input as it's always experience-based.

If you say they should be dry, then dry mine shall be. Here's the page from the Shop Manual anyways:

[e3steve]

A pleasure, Mark. It's fundamental mechanical knowledge; I'm not one of the lucky ones who owns a copy of Bill's publication - yet - but you can bet your next pay cheque he'll have it covered.

The bit about the antique furniture is from experience, from when I was 15 and decided that our lovely, old dining table was of a suitable height and build quality upon which to dismantle my old 197cc Villiers engine. My old man disagreed...... quite hard, too! WAGs (Wives And Girlfriends) have much more subtle, yet effective, methods of inflicting pain. Don't p155 'em off!

Other Motorcycling & MC Engineering Terminology can be found here:

http://www.honda305.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2879