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My 1965 CL77

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thepunisher2007
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Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:29 am
Location: Norwich

My 1965 CL77

Post by thepunisher2007 » Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:08 pm

Got this back in Feb of last year and it looked like this:
Image

its taken quite some time just to get the parts together, still a few missing but finally go here:
Image

I know a few of the bits arn't right but some of the parts are more difficult to find over here in the Uk. Engine was seized and it had the wrong wheels to start with finally got a nice powder coated frame to start the actually rebuild. now got to strips clean and blast the engine, make a new wring loom and a number of other little jobs.

heres a link of the first engine run wasn't quite firing right but hey its the first time in god knows how many years

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4bpTr1YehE

thepunisher2007
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Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:29 am
Location: Norwich

Post by thepunisher2007 » Thu Jan 05, 2017 5:14 pm

Image

this is what it looks like as of yesterday

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Fri Jan 06, 2017 7:08 am

What year is the bike?

I notice you have changed from the later brakes, wheels and forks to the early type.

The seat front mount is also early so it all looks right....

G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

thepunisher2007
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Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:29 am
Location: Norwich

Post by thepunisher2007 » Fri Jan 06, 2017 11:45 am

its a 1965, when i bought it it had the later wheels with it just not fitted (what little parts i had where in boxes). I managed to find some later model forks and modify a spare rear spindal to get them on the bike. It was mor helpful to have the biek rolling so i could move it about. Now its been put correct i belive wheels and forks front and rear (apart from the rear springs, I'm working on that).

Nick
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Post by Nick » Sat Jan 07, 2017 1:46 am

Good work! Another one saved from the breakers. Keep posting those pics.

If any ground cables attach to the frame be sure to remove the powder coat down to the bare metal. Maybe from the inside surface of one of the engine mounts as well, but others here will know if that's necessary.

If it continues to run weird, check the interior of the pipes for rats' nests, etc. On bikes that've sat for many years it's not uncommon for the pipes/mufflers to be partially plugged with debris.
Do what you've always done and you'll get what you've always had.

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G-Man
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Post by G-Man » Sat Jan 07, 2017 2:51 am

I have some spare early CL72 shocks in various states with the covers but I'm not sure about the CL77 clevis types.

If you find some in rough shape you can use Girling (Hagon) covers with some small mods.

The ones shown below are : NOS CL77 (bought as separate parts and assembled), Restored CL77 with Girling covers and restored Cl72 (early)

Image

The mod for the Girling covers is a ring to centralise the bottom cover....

Image

And a similar ring for the top cover to accomodate the slightly different diameters.

I also converted later-type CL77 damper bodies back to the early 'dismantlable' type with a screwed top collar.

Image


G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160
'66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77
'67 S90 '77 CB400F

thepunisher2007
honda305.com Member
Posts: 74
Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2016 10:29 am
Location: Norwich

Post by thepunisher2007 » Sat Jan 07, 2017 2:32 pm

They look great. I have a pair i pulled off a donor bike this morning (cl72) they look solid just a lite surface rust but should clean up good. How do you get them apart?


Separate question ill ad pics to illustrate the point but im having issues with the front forks. is the supposed to be and angle on the top by the clamps. I have 2 pairs of 72 forks all seemingly good condition apart from 1 is a little rusty. all of them have the same angle. when i put them on the front forks separate to the point they have to be pulled in to meet the wheel. Something is definitely not right. None appear damaged and all the bends measure the same. Or is it correct and the forks just need to be swiveled in the clamp so that the angles of both sides match and in theory close the gap (note i haven't tried that)
The later style forks and wheels i used to start with didn't have this issue but all my early forks have the same bend to the milometer
Image
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the i rotate the fork 180deg
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