Hey guys! Bring this thread back from the dead...
So I rewired my Pig last night with a Chinese wiring kit. Actually very well made. The only issue being the ring terminals for the key switch were about 3x too big. I had to replace them with smaller ones found at O'Reilly's. Other than that, they are pretty well made.
Anyway, my bike is a 1962 or 1963. I noticed some differences in a lot of the wiring diagrams. First off, I have a CH terminal on my key switch that seems to do nothing at all. It is not continuous with any of the other terminals in any key position. Also, my key CANNOT be removed in the Taillight position. Finally, I have a 2-position headlight switch-- off and on-- and it has NO brown wire, only green with a duplex. Now this bike had been hacked to death before, but the switches look correct for a CB77, and the writing on the back of each switch is English. Not sure where they came from.
I got it all to work, but merely for information's sake, any clue which bike, if not a CB/CA77 these originally are for? Thanks!
CL77 Wiring Diagram
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They are correct for the early CB72/77.
Give your frame number and you will learn the year the bike was issued. ...............lm
Give your frame number and you will learn the year the bike was issued. ...............lm
MBellRacing wrote:Hey guys! Bring this thread back from the dead...
So I rewired my Pig last night with a Chinese wiring kit. Actually very well made. The only issue being the ring terminals for the key switch were about 3x too big. I had to replace them with smaller ones found at O'Reilly's. Other than that, they are pretty well made.
Anyway, my bike is a 1962 or 1963. I noticed some differences in a lot of the wiring diagrams. First off, I have a CH terminal on my key switch that seems to do nothing at all. It is not continuous with any of the other terminals in any key position. Also, my key CANNOT be removed in the Taillight position. Finally, I have a 2-position headlight switch-- off and on-- and it has NO brown wire, only green with a duplex. Now this bike had been hacked to death before, but the switches look correct for a CB77, and the writing on the back of each switch is English. Not sure where they came from.
I got it all to work, but merely for information's sake, any clue which bike, if not a CB/CA77 these originally are for? Thanks!
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- honda305.com Member
- Posts: 7817
- Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:23 am
- Location: KERRVILLE, TEXAS
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Re: CL77 Wiring Diagram
Greetings,
I have dutifully dug through piles of correspondence on this site looking for a live link to switch matrix diagrams for both the ignition and lighting switch on a CL77. Lots of links - all dead. Where are they hiding?
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander NC 8701
I have dutifully dug through piles of correspondence on this site looking for a live link to switch matrix diagrams for both the ignition and lighting switch on a CL77. Lots of links - all dead. Where are they hiding?
Chris Finlayson
Existential Motorcycles
Alexander NC 8701
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- Location: orofino, idaho
Re: CL77 Wiring Diagram
As I recall, the "ch" terminal on back of the main switch is just a convenient way to join the red/white wire from the rectifier to the wire harness that connects to the battery terminal. Another (fused)wire comes back from the battery and connects to the "bat" terminal on the switch. Two separate wire harnesses are used, harness "A" contains the battery lead/coil wires. Harness"B" contains the rest of the wires that operate the lights and horn. You can ride the motorcycle,sans lights and horn, with just the "A" harness installed.
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CL72.jpg
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/CL72.jpg
'65 YG1
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
'65 CB160
'66 CL160
'66 CL77
'78 XS650
'79 GL1000
'69 T100R
'68 TR6
'69 T120
'72 750 Commando
my company car is a Kenworth
Re: CL77 Wiring Diagram
Your memory is quite right, the CH terminal on both CB and CL72s is simply a terminal post and doesn't connect to any of the other terminals in any switch position. It's actually a P.I.A. as it leaves the rectifier permanently connected to the battery which is why batteries drain/discharge in a few days when the rectifier gets tired. There is a fix for this which retains the standard rectifier if anyone is interested.