OK, so, I'm rebuilding CA95 150...new gasket set, new rings, new seals, but I have no compression...Zero.
Previously, after a lot of reading and trying to make sure I understood the pidgin English which the manual is written in, and finding nothing online but a whole bunch of "he said/he said" crap as to where the sprocket timing marks should be, and closing it up and putting it back on the bike TWICE with what I thought was the correct sprocket timing marks set where they should be, I still have Zero compression.
The first time I rebuilt it I had 60 and 65 lbs compression in the cylinders, which I know is low - but I had compression, AND a leaky head nut on the oil passage which is why I took it apart again in the first place...I thought the leaky oil passage was giving me the low compression - turns out I was using the wrong washers - steel instead of copper.
In THAT instance I had the cam sprocket set at 12:00 and the crank sprocket set at 6:00 - "at the lowest point", as the manual says to do. At that setting the timing marks on the rotor also lined up with the "T" mark on the stator. I had 55 lbs compression in the left cylinder, Zero on the right.
After opening it up for the second time to adjust the sprockets, the sprocket timing marks are NOW set at 12:00 on the camshaft and 12:00 on the crankshaft as it says to do in the manual, which I have done. Still Zero compression.
I have (lightly) honed the cylinders, checked the clearances, installed new STD rings, the valve clearances are set at 0.10 as per the manual, but I still have Zero compression.
I am severely confused. Tomorrow I plan to recheck the valve clearances and see what happens - maybe they're too loose, or tight, or it's Monday - but if anybody can give me some insight here, that would be much appreciated. The can of gasoline I have in the garage is starting to look REAL good...
-John
CORRECT position for the crank and camshaft sprockets?
The "T" mark on the rotor should be lined up with the pointer, which is about at 1:00 o'clock. The "O" on the cam sprocket should be pointing upward, in line with the cylinders, or about 11:00 o'clock (closest to the top cylinder head surface). To verify your valve adjustment, check one cylinder at a time. Turn the engine over in the normal direction of rotation. Just as the exhaust valve starts to open, check the intake clearance on that cylinder. Continue turning until that intake valve has fully opened and has nearly returned to its closed position. now check the exhaust valve clearance. Repeat for the other cylinder. Regards, Chase
CA95 cam timingHi Chase, thanks for getting back to me....
But on the sprockets themselves, on a CA95E, when reassembling the engine, the timing "O" mark should be at 12:00 on the cam sprocket, and where on the crank sprocket...? 12:00? 6:00? The manual says both cam and crank sprockets should be set at 12:00, but I have had no luck with that. I have also read the crank/lower sprocket should be at 6:00 and the cam sprocket at 12:00...I haven't tried 6:00 and 6:00 yet, because I have never seen that combination of cam settings mentioned, but by this point it is not outside the realm of possibility. What I plan to do this afternoon is open it up Again, eyeball the pistons to TDC and try to see if it all lines up with the pistons at TDC and the "T" mark on the pointer at 1:00..this is why I have been searching for the correct placement of the two sprockets. Hopefully my cam timing is the only thing that is off, and I will get compression back...I just hate reinstalling that damn woodruff key! And thank you for the valve adjustment information - I'll try that. I wasn't sure about the correct procedure re; which sides to do first, how and in what order... but it has been a bear trying to find what sprocket combination it should be, rather than where everybody seems to say they have theirs. -John
Finally figured out the CORRECT CA95 camshaft placement!OK, for anybody following this, ultimately what I did was get back in there, disconnect the cam chain and simply eyeball the pistons as I rotated the crankshaft sprocket. (You can do it w/o taking the engine out of the frame, too).
The "O" mark on the crankshaft wound up being located at the 6:00 position, the camshaft sprocket at 12:00, with the pistons at TDC, and the pointer at the "T" mark. I buttoned it all up and actually got some compression, 85 lbs out of the left and 50 lbs out of the right, but I still have to make sure the valves are adjusted right, and I have high hopes that will boost it. The moral of the story (or at least MY story) is forget about the CA95 manual; Page 24, which allegedly shows you the 'proper' placement for timing for both the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets as 12:00 - is wrong. My experience was, put the camshaft at 12:00, and the crankshaft at 6:00; this way the pistons are at TDC, the pointer is where it should be, and the annoying woodruff key sits atop the crankshaft in it's little slot - eyeball it ALL to make sure that's where it all belongs - but getting the rotor to behave and fit correctly without knocking the woodruff key out, or damaging it, is another story. But it CAN be done! Special thanks to cknight for putting up with my questions will I sought the answer, and offering clues to my questions. And my can of gasoline will stay in the corner of the garage...for now.
Just a bit of a follow-up: it helps to have the valve seats reground too...according to the mechanic who reground my valve seats, I had that low compression due to some corrosion on the seats. He reground the valves and my compression went from 85/90 all the way up to over 150 lbs per cylinder! Cost me all of $20, which was nice of him...
Got low compression? Try regrinding the valve seats...It worked for me...
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