Tim Miller wrote:It all sounds like a Band-Aid to the real problem. I would be looking into fixing the actual problem. If the little end has taper then it needs to be fixed via. Bushing or replace rod or crank. I was helping a vintage road racer racing CB 77 in GP 350/500 class rebuilding crankshafts and he was trying to running Teflon with very little success it was really eating them up. I would suggest you call any real piston manufacturer and ask them about Teflon buttons?
Peace out,
Tim
Well I actually don't know what the real problem is. John checked for play etc in the crank and it all seemed tight and fine to him (mind you, he does not have specialized equipment to finely check for crank wear, the clearances, wear etc). I am going to call Bill Moeller on Tuesday and talk with him further about these buttons. I will also ask him specifically about their longevity, and if they happen to fail after 2000 miles, then what? Since the pistons, cylinders, wrist pins and now the buttons are all Bore-Tech's, he should know his products better than anyone. I will also talk with my mechanic John about all of this and get some assurances.
This is what often happens when a non-mechanic (me!) relies on the expertise of others -- I'm liable to get differing opinions about what will and will not work, and what is a good and not so good idea. I'm sure if someone asked me about something photography-related, I'd likely give them an opinion that's different than some other photographers.
I will hopefully find out more on Tuesday!
