And the 450 carbs. Thanks again to fastjoe for the photos.
Mounting a CB160 Front Fender On My CB77 Super Hawk?
Well Superchicken, (Joe did this about 30yrs ago) He said that there wasn't much, if any more top speed, had really good throttle response (Practically Bog Proof), Very stable idle and better on gas mileage. He and a buddy (who was on a stock CB77) took a trip. His buddy avg'd 50mpg, while Joe avg'd over 60mpg! That's really all he had to say about the results. Oh, and he tried rejetting and it worked best with stock jets! How about that! Since I already have some 450 carbs on hand (and have NO CB77 carbs), I just have to get them mounted up, when the time comes. Later on, Bill This is to go along with the whole CB450 carb swap thing. One might think that since 500 Titan carbs can be swapped onto a CB450 and Cb450 onto a CB77, then the Titans should go on a CB77?
******************************************************************************* A very kind fellow called Nate sent me this on adapting the suszuki 500 twin mikunis to the cb450: I will ask him if it may be for 500 bore out/500T also. Hey Brian, sorry for the lag in getting back to you. Here's some info on the T500 carbs I'm using: #115 Main jet #25 Pilot jet #6DH7 Needle Suzuki stock Needle Jet Suzuki stock slide Suzuki stock Float height Clip on needle in 3rd position 1 1/2 or 2 turns out on the idle mixture screw As far as physically getting the carbs on the 450, they pop right into the stock manifolds. There are some mods required; 1. Provide a vacuum port on both carbs on the engine side. Looks like one carb is usually ready to go, so replicate that on the second carb. This is needed so the carbs can be syncronized with a pair of vacuum guages. I like them better than the mercury sticks 'cause you can run through the RPM range in a more "real-world" manner and not be afraid of sucking some liquid metal into the engine. 2. Lengthen the choke control rod. A section of brass tube will do. Cut the rod in half and silver solder the two pieces into the brass tube. 3. Shorten the top cap where the throttle cable enters. I used a lathe to nip off the tops and drill 'em out, but a hacksaw and cordless drill will do just as well. This and #4 are to get the carbs short enough to fit under the tank. My tank comes just to the top of the elbow. Tight!! 4. Modify throttle cable assembly to fit your bike and swap out the threaded adjusters on the top cap with elbows. The elbows can be from the T500 cable assembly or bicycle "brake noodles" available at any bicycle shop. They need to be shortened and a washer silver-soldered several millimeters from the end to act as a stop. Don't worry about losing the threaded adjusters, that's what the top caps are used for. A larger diameter on the top cap allows for finer tuning anyway. As I remember, these VM carbs required 70mm of free cable from the silver-soldered washer to the cable end. It will vary depending on how much the top cap is shortened. This'll teach yuh to make cables! 5. A pair of Uni Filters snug right on and are lighterand cheaper than K&N's. Brake noodle(A) As far as tuning these carbs, getting the 6DH7 needles is imperative. The stock 5DP7's dump to much fuel in as soon as you roll the thottle open. I started out with way bigger main jets and couldn't get any higher RPM's. So I put a Gunson ColorTune on the engine and realized I was getting way to much fuel even with the 6DH7 needles. I suspect it's because the needle jets are primary type and not the air-bleed type more suitable for 4-stroke engines. I spent a summer riding around NW Oregon(sea level) and several trips over the Cascades(4800') to Bend(3500'), paying attention to how the bike felt. Expect 9500 rpms or so. This is the only problem I'm running into so far. I suspect different needle jets will help smooth fuel delivery futher up the RPM's, allowing for those bigger main jets I was expecting. No problems with fouled plugs and better starting. Typically I kick the engine through several times to prime the oil-pump, push the choke on, kick it through three or four more times to prime the cylinders, choke off, ignition on, a kick and there you are. It even settles into a decent cold idle after a couple minutes barely holding the thottle open. To balance the carbs while running, observe which carb has a higher vacuum reading, then turn that sides top cap up, raising its slide and lowering the vacuum reading. Or, vice-versa. Also, observe how the gauges behave when the throttle is rolled on and then closed. If they don't stay fairly close to one another, look into the cables for just that extra bit of drag, causing one slide to lag behind its mate. Buh-balanced!! Mind the top caps don't spin freely though. The engine vibes will make them move on their own. I think I VERY GENTLY sqeezed the top caps a bit to snug them up on the carb body. Put a good coat of grease on those threads so there is no chance of galling.
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