Electronic Ignition Pops

[danielzink]

With the key on do you have 12 volts at the coil.
If not find 12 volts from the switch. ...................lm

The unit itself is mounted where the points plate usually goes.

As it is right now, I have one wire from the new electronic ignition plugged into the wiring harness where the condenser goes, and the other wire from the elec. ignition clipped into the wire going to the secondary coil.

Mine was a "Tytronics" ?<sp>

Supposed 2 wire system.

1 wire to Hot.

2nd wire to Points negative.

Verified key on 12V

And...I got nothin'.....

Dan

[danielzink]

The unit itself is mounted where the points plate usually goes.

As it is right now, I have one wire from the new electronic ignition plugged into the wiring harness where the condenser goes, and the other wire from the elec. ignition clipped into the wire going to the secondary coil.

One thing that was made abundantly clear to me when I was futzing with the electronic ignition was that the condenser has to be completely out of the "loop" (as it were)....

Ifyou're going to bin the electronic ignition and go back to points and a new condenser is required...it'll be easy enough to re-route wire and hide it somewhere else...leaving the stock condenser in place for the proper "look" :)

Dan

[Dr. Frankenstein]

LM, I checked the switch and the coil - I have 12.27 volts at the switch, but I'm not sure how to check the coil for voltage.

The battery is fairly new - an AGM sealed battery I got last year, charged and kept on a BatteryTender 12-volt charger. The battery tested a little over 13 volts when I checked it.

The new aftermarket coil I had on there measured 1.8 ohms across the leads/wires going into the coil, and the old OEM coil that I thought was dead measured 4.8 ohms across the leads.

Thinking the new aftermarket coil wasn't producing enough "oomph" to create a spark, I took off the new aftermarket coil and replaced it with the old one and tried again, but still no spark.

I am using 7mm copper core solid spark wires from the coil to the plugs.

I have NGK 5 ohm resistor caps on the spark wires, and trimmed the wire slightly to make sure I had positive contact with the wire when I screwed them in.

Battery is fully charged, registering a little over 13 volts, actually.

I do have continuity through everything else - I tested all my connections - battery to solenoid, wire harness to the starter switch connector, the connector FROM the harness to the ignition switch, and the two leads on the electronic ignition. I have continuity through all of them.

I have continuity from the battery through the solenoid and into the harness, up to the switch where, as I said, I got 12.27 volts there.

The manual I have is no help when it comes to testing the coil - "test the coil for proper operation," is pretty much all it says - no notes on how to do it or what to look for.

This is all I know so far.

[easy305]

Theres lots of videos on you tube on how to test coils

[LOUD MOUSE]

I assume you use a VOM to test for 12 volts at the switch.
Test for 12 volts at the coil the same way.
2 wires switch on and test. ........................lm

LM, I checked the switch and the coil - I have 12.27 volts at the switch, but I'm not sure how to check the coil for voltage.

The battery is fairly new - an AGM sealed battery I got last year, charged and kept on a BatteryTender 12-volt charger. The battery tested a little over 13 volts when I checked it.

The new aftermarket coil I had on there measured 1.8 ohms across the leads/wires going into the coil, and the old OEM coil that I thought was dead measured 4.8 ohms across the leads.

Thinking the new aftermarket coil wasn't producing enough "oomph" to create a spark, I took off the new aftermarket coil and replaced it with the old one and tried again, but still no spark.

I am using 7mm copper core solid spark wires from the coil to the plugs.

I have NGK 5 ohm resistor caps on the spark wires, and trimmed the wire slightly to make sure I had positive contact with the wire when I screwed them in.

Battery is fully charged, registering a little over 13 volts, actually.

I do have continuity through everything else - I tested all my connections - battery to solenoid, wire harness to the starter switch connector, the connector FROM the harness to the ignition switch, and the two leads on the electronic ignition. I have continuity through all of them.

I have continuity from the battery through the solenoid and into the harness, up to the switch where, as I said, I got 12.27 volts there.

The manual I have is no help when it comes to testing the coil - "test the coil for proper operation," is pretty much all it says - no notes on how to do it or what to look for.

This is all I know so far.

[Seadog]

Coil test for resistance https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c

[LOUD MOUSE]

He hasn't tested for 12 volts yet!. .................lm

Coil test for resistance https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c