First post! I have a 67' CB77 Superhawk that has been leaking oil under the right crankcase. After running the bike it drips pretty consistently for days after.
I took apart the case and the stator to reveal the below pictures. I have read quite a few threads with similar issues. I'm at a stopping point because i don't have a puller rod. Most things look clean but you can tell there is a pool up of oil on the chain and drips down the side of the engine case and out. Any ideas with the way forward? Do I need to purchase a puller rod tool to reveal the gasket under it? With this being my first bike, I want to get others opinions first before taking further steps.
*note* I have the red book and the clymer workshop manual which both have info on this but the info is vague and dont make a whole lot of sense to a newie.
Clean side of the case
https://imgur.com/1O6whgo
Oil dripping down the chain
https://imgur.com/AVt9cm1
Hard to tell but it looks like oil is coming down from the starter gear onto the chain then out of the case
https://imgur.com/eTNPTpz
-Geoff
67' CB77 oil leak behind stator
Re: 67' CB77 oil leak behind statorYou have 2 seals at that location.
One for the crank shaft and the other in the starter sprocket. Check both. .....................lm
Is it worth taking it into a mechanic to take out the center flywheel bolt and replace the seals or buy a puller tool to get to the seals? looking at this thread, (http://www.honda305.com/forums/can-some ... t9577.html) it just says "2. Removing the rotor may result in the guts of the starter clutch falling out. If so, it takes some tinkering to get it back together - sometimes the springs and cups are damaged - if so, HONDA still sells them. Get new guts before you put it back together." it doesn't so How to do this. Also, for both of those seals, where can I find the replacement part numbers? Thanks so much for the help! -Geoff Geoff
As you've already got the cover off and diagnosed the problem I don't think you need to take it to somewhere else. You need a simple metric bolt 16mm diameter x 1.5mm thread pitch. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cap-Screw-Bolt ... Swu1VW7DZj You undo the bolt holding the rotor, screw in the extractor bolt and, if necessary give the extractor bolt a whack and the rotor should pop off. The seals are available Crankshaft: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb77-genera ... lHVzyOcbpg Starter Sprocket https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb77-genera ... lHWEiOcbpg If you want to get them closer to home you can use the part numbers shown in the links above. G G
'60 C77 '60 C72 '62 C72 Dream '63 CL72
'61 CB72 '64 CB77 '65 CB160 '66 Matchless 350 '67 CL77 '67 S90 '77 CB400F
"Add your location".
As "G" says get a 16x1.5 bolt from a hardware store. It is cheap. I have the seals if you take on the project. To do an easy reinstall of the sprocket turn the sprocket while pushing on the rotor. .....................lm
Two questions:
When placing the rotor removal bolt in, to separate the rotor, do you hit it with a hammer on the head of the bolt with the force going towards the bike or hit it on the lip of the bolt with the force away from the bike. With instillation of the rotor what is the torque wrench lbs setting for tightening the center bolt is? -Geoff
You need to be careful of transferring shock to the rotor or hitting it directly as this will reduce the magnetism of the magnets within. If you use a box or socket wrench on the bolt and hit it so as to to push the bolt inward, the rotor should come off without much effort. I have used an impact driver on some difficult cases but, again, be careful of hitting the rotor.
As for tightening the bolt I have no torque spec. to give but 'moderately tight' seems to work well.
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