Does this show that I am advanced or retarded

Jlovvorn · Post by **Jlovvorn** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 5:13 pm

And please resist the urge to respond that the bike is advanced, and I am retarded....

Bad drawings show what I see with timing strobe.

Since the crank turns counterclockwise, I think this is advanced.

With static light, the timing is dead on for both sides, so if this is advanced, something is not right.

hillhudson · Post by **hillhudson** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:44 pm

if it lights up BEFORE 'F' lines up with marking, then you're advanced,

mike in idaho · Post by **mike in idaho** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:45 pm

Not much information to go on here. Are you checking the marks at idle or high rpm?

Jlovvorn · Post by **Jlovvorn** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 10:10 pm

Static timing with light is dead on both sides.

With strobe, idle timing is an inch left of marks.

At 4,000, strobe reading is three inches left of mark.

Seems like static and stobe should yield sme results.

My question is whether these strobe readings should worry me or if I can check it off my lst me move on to other causes of my problems.

hillhudson · Post by **hillhudson** » Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:35 pm

i dont know why your trying to time the bike when its running. idle timing ? timing the bike is very simple.

this is from Ed Moores ( LOUD MOUSE) instructions

"Set "R" points to .014. Tighten the screws. (you are through with them!
Put alligator clips on the "R" points and engine case. Put bulb behind the left carb. BRIGHT YOU KNOW!
Turn key to "ON".
Turn crank with Vise Grips so "F" is in line with pointer at rotor area. (The mark on point cam should be down. If it is up. Crank engine 360 degrees.)
Loosen points plate.
Hold crank somehow at "F" to marker and adjust PLATE so light JUST comes on at "F".
Tighten plate. Check opening now by moving pliers forward then back. If light comes on other than at "F". Adjust plate until it does when the plate is tightened. May require a couple of adjustments. You are through with the plate."

i wouldn't try to use a strobe which is meant for timing cars isn't it? i'd use a small 12V timing light, very easy to make or buy.

CliffC · Post by **CliffC** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 12:06 am

I haven't messed with these engines since 1968 and have two disassembled CB's in the garage but I thought I remembered these cranks rotating clockwise. It has been a long time, I may be wrong and I'm sure if I am I will be corrected. I still feel your intermittent problem is points/points plate loosing up or the advancer/advancer springs having play, probably more to do with the points. As said by others the standard 12 volt light is all you need to properly set timing. The strobe timing light should show the amount of advance as RPM is increased and also how study it is. I do wish you luck on the problem. Cliff

brewsky · Post by **brewsky** » Sun Mar 25, 2012 4:09 am

Jlovvorn wrote:Static timing with light is dead on both sides.

With strobe, idle timing is an inch left of marks.

At 4,000, strobe reading is three inches left of mark.

Seems like static and stobe should yield sme results.

My question is whether these strobe readings should worry me or if I can check it off my lst me move on to other causes of my problems.

Yes, those readings should worry you!

The timing should be the same whether you use the static or strobe method UNLESS you have advance mechanism issues, (or the points plate is not tightened)

If they are different, the most important setting is to make sure the advance marks line up with the pointer at higher rpm, and the only way to do that accurately is with the strobe.

That takes any slop in the advance mechanism out of the equation. It also takes idle rpm variation out of the equation. It is much more important to get the timing right at high rpm than at idle.

The engine rotation, viewed from the rotor, is clockwise.. (unless my memory is completely shot!)

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Does this show that I am advanced or retarded

Does this show that I am advanced or retarded