Question about Timing

[akpasta]

Is that a problem, or is it just something that happens when you go from static timing to a cam spinning at 1500rpms or more?

[CliffC]

Think of it this way, when the engine is not running the flyweights are not moving so the static setting of the points should be right on. Once the engine is running, centrifugal force causes the flyweights to move which advances the timing. How much the timing changes depends on the RPM. Cliff

[akpasta]

Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

[Tim Miller]

Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Do you use it to set each set while the engine is running?. ............lm

Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.

[akpasta]

Thanks Tim. I figured this was the case. So looks like the best thing to do is set static timing using the Ed Moore method in the FAQ, since that will ensure both sets of points have the same gap and open at the correct time in relation to one another, and then set the advance timing using a strobe, with the engine running, to factor for the variation in timing that comes with an engine spinning at +3500rpms. My friend who helped me the first time mentioned the same thing about the advance, you can overheat if you are too far advanced. I need to retard a little bit, but not much.

And thanks for all the advice everyone, it's a huge help.

[Tim Miller]

Yes, Like I said both cylinder must be the same at full advance. After you set the points @ .014 on the right side adjust the points plate till you get the total timing set between the two marks and lock it down, then check the left side and adjust only the L points gap till it reads the same as the right. Its easy.

Tim

Do you use it to set each set while the engine is running?. ............lm

Yes, your advance spring maybe a little weak, but as long as the timing isn't jumping around at idle your OK. I do like to see the timing at idle as close to F as posible, but that's not always possible because of wear on the advancer stops. The most important thing for me is that the total timing at full advance say above 3500 RPM reads between the two full advance marks on both cylinders. No matter what it is idles. This is why I always use the strobe timing light. More often than not if you only set the timing for idle it will over advance the total timing at full throttle and sieze the pistons. The timing light is the cheepest insurance you can buy.

Tim

Ok, I get it. So if you could run the engine at like 500rpms it would be very close to the F mark, but when I'm idling at 1500 rpms, it's going to be a bit past the F mark.

So you use the strobe to make sure it doesn't advance too much at full advance. Is the case mark supposed to be in the middle of those two advance lines or before?

thanks.