Ignition point opening/closing...

[LOUD MOUSE]

I wasn't aware ya was a professor teazer.
And I assume most on the forum aren't engineers.
Ya sure intelligent for sure. ............lm

As LM indicated earlier, with points open the electrons will flow through the timing light to ground. When the points are closed they will take the path of least resistance and go through the points to ground so the light will not be lit.

As you turn the motor while watching the alternator markings, the light should go on as the points open

Hope that makes sense

[MBellRacing]

I'm quite impressed with all the answers on here, you're all a great help!

P.S...
I found 2 big problems:

1) My petcock was FILLED with rust and dirt and stuff. Cleaned it out. Decided to clean out the fuel lines and all. They're all fine, for the most part.

2) The ignition advance plate top screw has stripped the threads in the case and can't hold the plate with any kind of force. It looks like it has been rattling around and even moving a bit for quite some time and maybe my last ride just knocked it loose. Quick fix will be some locktite until I can find a good solution. It doesn't seem like there's much aluminum to drill for a helicoil. Anybody experienced this before?...

Would still like any information people have on using the timing light.

Edit: Found info on timing light-- once I finish up with the fueling, I'll start it up and see where it is.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Those threads were/are JIS and ya can tap them to ISO and the threads will hold.
Ya going to have a problem locating a JIS tap and ISO taps are available. ..................lm

I'm quite impressed with all the answers on here, you're all a great help!

P.S...
I found 2 big problems:

1) My petcock was FILLED with rust and dirt and stuff. Cleaned it out. Decided to clean out the fuel lines and all. They're all fine, for the most part.

2) The ignition advance plate top screw has stripped the threads in the case and can't hold the plate with any kind of force. It looks like it has been rattling around and even moving a bit for quite some time and maybe my last ride just knocked it loose. Quick fix will be some locktite until I can find a good solution. It doesn't seem like there's much aluminum to drill for a helicoil. Anybody experienced this before?...

Would still like any information people have on using the timing light.

Edit: Found info on timing light-- once I finish up with the fueling, I'll start it up and see where it is.

[brewsky]

As LM indicated earlier, with points open the electrons will flow through the timing light to ground. When the points are closed they will take the path of least resistance and go through the points to ground so the light will not be lit.

As you turn the motor while watching the alternator markings, the light should go on as the points open

Hope that makes sense

???
If i remember my basic elecrticity class right, the points will act as an on/off switch for the light...points closed = light on....points open = light off. So at the instant the light goes off = plug fires and should equal when the timing mark matches the pointer. This assumes your light is powered with its own battery.
Another way to check it is to place a very thin piece of cellophane between the points while they are closed (cigarette pack wrapping works) and pull on it slightly as you turn the engine over. As soon as you feel it release = plug fires and should match timing marks......no batteries required.
It is also easier to do with the plugs out of the engine so you don't have to fight the engines compression.

[LOUD MOUSE]

Little problem here.
When the points touch the 12 volts go to ground and the light which is connected from ground to the 12 volt wire at the points will go out.
Once again the coils/fire when the points open. ............lm

As LM indicated earlier, with points open the electrons will flow through the timing light to ground. When the points are closed they will take the path of least resistance and go through the points to ground so the light will not be lit.

As you turn the motor while watching the alternator markings, the light should go on as the points open

Hope that makes sense

???
If i remember my basic elecrticity class right, the points will act as an on/off switch for the light...points closed = light on....points open = light off. So at the instant the light goes off = plug fires and should equal when the timing mark matches the pointer. This assumes your light is powered with its own battery.
Another way to check it is to place a very thin piece of cellophane between the points while they are closed (cigarette pack wrapping works) and pull on it slightly as you turn the engine over. As soon as you feel it release = plug fires and should match timing marks......no batteries required.
It is also easier to do with the plugs out of the engine so you don't have to fight the engines compression.

[brewsky]

My bad! I was thinking about homemade light with its own battery using the points as the switch and no bike power to the points.
Forgot about them fancy store bought units!
Going to stick my nose in the chalk circle on the blackboard now!

[LOUD MOUSE]

Ya alright there feller for sure. ..............lm

My bad! I was thinking about homemade light with its own battery using the points as the switch and no bike power to the points.
Forgot about them fancy store bought units!
Going to stick my nose in the chalk circle on the blackboard now!