Clutch getting really stiff.

[Johnny5]

I have my 1965 Dream and I can't figure out whats wrong with the clutch, I tried to adjust it one way and it does nothing but slip then you adjust it back out at the bars while riding and it quits but then its really hard to down shift. And then after it gets warmed up the clutch gets so hard to pull that I have to pretty much shift without the clutch....any ideas about what is causing this would be awesome, I just got the bike running well and really want to take it on a longer trip. Thanks!!

[hillhudson]

i have this same problem with my cb77. :( don't know what to do either.

[rustywrench]

You didn't mention if you lubed the cable or not but that would the most obvious place to start. Old crusty cables make for a stiff clutch. First, other than a new cable I remove it, then squirt a good amount of brake cleaner or liquid wrench to remove the rust. Then I use a cable lube from a M/C shop that has a long needle on the end of the bottle. This lube is a liquid graphite and when the liquid evaporates, the graphite remains in place. Hope this helps. Rusty

[rzgkane]

I have my 1965 Dream and I can't figure out whats wrong with the clutch, I tried to adjust it one way and it does nothing but slip then you adjust it back out at the bars while riding and it quits but then its really hard to down shift. And then after it gets warmed up the clutch gets so hard to pull that I have to pretty much shift without the clutch....any ideas about what is causing this would be awesome, I just got the bike running well and really want to take it on a longer trip. Thanks!!

Buy a new cable from a HONDA dealer and start there. Last I checked (three days ago) they were under $9 at Babbitts Honda online. There really isn't much to those clutch systems. A cable, an actuator in the right crankcase cover, a 16" rod and the clutch itself behind the left cover.

[Johnny5]

You didn't mention if you lubed the cable or not but that would the most obvious place to start. Old crusty cables make for a stiff clutch. First, other than a new cable I remove it, then squirt a good amount of brake cleaner or liquid wrench to remove the rust. Then I use a cable lube from a M/C shop that has a long needle on the end of the bottle. This lube is a liquid graphite and when the liquid evaporates, the graphite remains in place. Hope this helps. Rusty

Cable is new with a grease fitting and all greased up.

[rzgkane]

You didn't mention if you lubed the cable or not but that would the most obvious place to start. Old crusty cables make for a stiff clutch. First, other than a new cable I remove it, then squirt a good amount of brake cleaner or liquid wrench to remove the rust. Then I use a cable lube from a M/C shop that has a long needle on the end of the bottle. This lube is a liquid graphite and when the liquid evaporates, the graphite remains in place. Hope this helps. Rusty

Cable is new with a grease fitting and all greased up.

Any unusual or multiple bends in the clutch cable? If not, I'd pull off the right side crank cover and see what's going on in there. Maybe the clutch thread (the mechanism that the clutch cable attaches to) is all crusted up with old grease and needs to be cleaned out and re lubricated.

[mike in idaho]

Pull the right side cover off, leaving the cable attached, and pull the clutch lever in while you watch the lower end of the cable. The cable length needs to adjusted so that the end of the cable and the release arm form a 90° angle, with the clutch lever back to the handlebar. This length gives the best mechanical advantage/lightest pull. Re-attach the cover(ball bearing in place?) and adjust the clutch lifter(big screwdriver slot), clockwise to take up the slack, then back a little bit for running clearance.