The clutch center

[Dick Eastman]

has two ring grooves, and, according to the parts book diagram, "clutch plate stoppers" go into these [P/N 22431-259-000]. Mine are missing. I pulled the clutch cover off because, no matter what I tried, I cannot get the tranny to go into neutral while running. I've tried gently going from 2nd to neutral as I approached a stop; I've experimented extensively with the clutch adjustment, etc. It goes into neutral fine with the engine off. I also noticed that while on the center stand, engine running, and engaging first gear, and, with the clutch lever pulled in, the rear wheel will still keep rotating. A tap on the rear brake, release, and the wheel will start rotating again, more pronounced cold than when hot. I don't know what kind of oil the previous owner used, but I drained the oil hot, and proceeded to remove the cover, clutch, etc. I have another gear shift spindle I wanted to install anyway [much better splines]. From my experience, some oils work better than others when it comes to clutch drag.
I want to check disc thicknesses, flatness, etc before I re-assemble, but, I would like to know if the missing "clutch plate stoppers" have any bearing on my problem, and why they are used, and if there is a simple substitute for these, shy of ordering a pair from someone.

[48lesco]

That's a common problem with the CB/CL trannys. The gear dogs are undercut slightly and once engaged, like to hang on which is good in all cases except when trying to find neutral. The best you're likely to do is find neutral while rolling to a stop. You're correct that the root of the problem is that the clutch drags slightly. Those wires were meant to help that, but I don't think they really do much and most just leave them out. Unless you have the correct series of plate thicknesses that the center came with, they won't fit right anyway. One thing to make sure of is that you're getting the full range of motion at the pressure plate and there's lots of things between it and your left hand. Not so obvious are fat grips, a bent lever, and the lower cable adjuster not screwed in as far as possible to lower the angle of the actuator arm. Others will chime in on the preferred number of plates and type of oil at which point this thread may "go viral."
-48

[R100]

The clutch actuator arm should be at 7 o'clock at rest. That's if you take the right cover off and turn it around so you are looking at the inside.

[G-Man]

While you have the centre and basket dismantled, check the grooves and slots that the plates run in for indentations which might stop the plates separating freely.

Those wires seem to be more trouble than they're worth. If they break up they can cause havoc inside the transmission and other places.

A sloppy shifter linkage can also spell trouble for neutral selection.

G

[Dick Eastman]

That's a common problem with the CB/CL trannys. The gear dogs are undercut slightly and once engaged, like to hang on which is good in all cases except when trying to find neutral. The best you're likely to do is find neutral while rolling to a stop. You're correct that the root of the problem is that the clutch drags slightly. Those wires were meant to help that, but I don't think they really do much and most just leave them out. Unless you have the correct series of plate thicknesses that the center came with, they won't fit right anyway. One thing to make sure of is that you're getting the full range of motion at the pressure plate and there's lots of things between it and your left hand. Not so obvious are fat grips, a bent lever, and the lower cable adjuster not screwed in as far as possible to lower the angle of the actuator arm. Others will chime in on the preferred number of plates and type of oil at which point this thread may "go viral."
-48

I do have the lower cable adjuster out a bit, so as not to have the adjuster at the lever run out too far - thanks

[Dick Eastman]

The clutch actuator arm should be at 7 o'clock at rest. That's if you take the right cover off and turn it around so you are looking at the inside.

I think it is at about 8 o'clock presently - thanks

[Dick Eastman]

While you have the centre and basket dismantled, check the grooves and slots that the plates run in for indentations which might stop the plates separating freely.

Those wires seem to be more trouble than they're worth. If they break up they can cause havoc inside the transmission and other places.

A sloppy shifter linkage can also spell trouble for neutral selection.

G

There are some burrs I plan to remove. Glad you said that about the wires - I don;t know why they are there.
I did find some thing that may be the problem, however: the shift drum retainer plate is mounted upside down, i.e., the open side faces upward and there is wear on both sides of it from the drum groove sidewalls; the retainer plate is .118" [3mm], and the worn area measures .082", giving .036" extra end play on the drum. Furthermore, the heads of the two 6mm flat head screws have wear marks on them where they are partially under the shift drum in the non-detented area. When the five detented areas pass over the screw heads, the drum shifts to the right - the non-detented areas are trying to ride over the edge of the screw heads. I don't know why the retainer plate was not counter sunk deep enough to make the screw heads flush or below the retainer plate surface.
The retainer plate mounting holes are not in the centerline of the drum, either, so there is not full contact between the drum groove and plate. It appears that the only way to put the plate open side down is to split the cases. I wonder if anyone has cut the plate into two halves - there is negligible radial torque on the plate, as it serves only to keep the end thrust of the drum in check. The screws could be thread locked with LockTite red, and set with an impact driver. Would the two halves be short and stout enough to handle end thrust of the shift drum as it is articulated through gear changes? Just throwing this out there...