Honda305.com Forum

OK you electronic wizards, I’m looking for suggestions before I remove my recently installed bridge rectifier and reinstall the OEM type. So after installing the bridge rectifier (Snakeoils diagram), all seemed ok. My highest dc output was a generous 14+vdc. But, I believe I cooked my acid battery b...

There are quite a number of parasites embedded in the site, so don’t respond to any of them. Check out the “off topic-rants and raves” column about BUGS and you’ll get a glimpse of what’s been happening.

Russ, You mentioned that if you “opened the choke” when the bike was warm, “it rev’s high”. Choke closed limits the air intake for cold starting. Once started, depending on the carb characteristics, the choke should fully opened for normal operation, and this shouldn’t take but several minutes. You ...

Russ, When performing your “carb strip”, did you remove the main jet holder, the slow jet, and with a fine stiff wire, poke through the emulsion tube holes and the tube bodies and gently blow them out with compressed air? Also while the carb is off and jets and air screws out, blow through the carb ...

SHOCKS: Check EBay for new aftermarket and used. MUFFLERS: IF your pipes have been cut...you might need a new set to mount the OEM muffler. IF you can find an OEM muffler that will slip onto your pipes, you’re in luck. But search it out on google or EBay as there may be aftermarket ones $$$$. If you...

Sounds bad to me.
I say follow Ed’s procedure (as you have), and watch your plugs for telltale signs of lean or rich condition, and go from there.
Seems to me a dead cylinder would pull the idle RPM down on the running one, which would mess with your final idle RPM adjustment with both running.

Bodie, What I have done in be past on my CL is lightly sand the culprit aluminum carb slide sleeve with a super fine sand paper and a light oil to capture any material. But I also have done these things listed in the past when the sticking slide visited me; 1) Check the Slide for nicks on the top ed...