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It's day 10 now. On Day 2 I squirted diesel fuel into both spark plug holes hoping to free up the siezed piston(s) and every day since I have tried to budge the rotor bolt but she's still frozen. I even tried pressurizing the cylinders up to 150 psi with a bit of an adaptor that you can see in the photo. The right side lost pressure, but the left side held it, so the left might be the culprit.

Plan B was to remove the head but when I took the top cover off there was no cam chain master link in sight. Given the crankshaft position, it shouldn't have been visible, but I was disappointed nonetheless.

Plan C (I've never been at Plan C / Defcon 3 before) was to remove the cam chain tensioner in the hope that the master link was there. The roller looked serviceable still, and with a bit of zinc plating, the mounting harware would brighten up...

...and there it was--the master link!

With the cam chain apart, the head came off and confirmed my suspicion that the left cylinder was the frozen one--it still held its diesel fuel while the right cylinder allowed its diesel to seep past the rings and into the crankcase.

A turkey baster sucked up the pool of diesel and a few gentle mallet blows to the pistons freed things up enough for me to remove the head. The left piston was not pretty, nor was the cylinder sleeve. Time to look in the spares box for that extra cylinder barrel and pistons that I almost drove away without had not the PO run after me down his driveway yelling, "You forgot these!"

You had a bit to do then......

I hope I can get mine to look half as good when I attack it! Lovely job you've made of it. Congrats!

Thank you Steve--that's a bit of encouragement for me to keep working at it. I'm taking a bit of a break from the restoration log to check out my starter clutch--looks like I'll need some new parts there.

Wilf

I'm about a month into this job and it's time to see what lies behind the right side cover...

It doesn't look all that bad in the cover but I will have to figure out what all the gears and springs are about.

On the engine side there is lots of rust and grime to deal with.

The oil on the stator coils and the spots where the coil insulation has evaporated give me something to think about.

I see I'm missing a grease nipple for the kick-start bushing--why is that? And I don't like the looks of the clutch adjuster slot or the wear on the kick-start arm--it looks like it has interfered with the rear brake pedal a number of times. Maybe my Super Hawk has met pavement on the right side as well as the left?

I've cleaned up the right side cover and engine case and after examining the wiring schematic I've labeled the wires coming from the alternator and neutral switch. The switch wasn't working properly so it will have to be taken apart and cleaned.

After pulling the gears and springs from the right cover I see I'm missing the washer between the kick-start spring and the case and also that the kick-start bushing protrudes above the facing on the case.

On the outside of the cover I'm missing the grease nipple for the kick-start bushing and a thrust washer between the kick-start arm and the case. I also see that the grease hole in the kick-start bushing does not line up with the grease nipple hole. Maybe trying to force grease where it has no place to go has instead forced the nipple out of the case?

For future reference, I thought I would label all the right side seal dimensions. The big one appears to have suffered some abuse. I see that the drive chain has carved into the engine case a bit and I wonder how that happened.

Now I see this engine is missing a starter sprocket stopper and a starter cable clamp. (My thanks to davo for looking and FASTFRED for supplying me with the stopper.)

And when I took the drive sprocket off I found a home-made spacer (I think) between the locking plate and the sprocket. I wonder why this would have been deemed necessary, and also wonder if it had contributed to the wear marks on the engine case. The sprocket looks unusable.

A bit of elbow grease and Simple Green has made the bottom shiny clean.

After some hours of hand painting the frame it looks not too bad.

Wilf, investigate and research everything you do with your rebuild. It is easy to F up parts if you assume how things should work, I did. Go through this forum and try to answer your questions, for the answers are here. Many members have given answers to your questions. If I knew the answers of your questions I would gladly tell you. This forum has helped me to rebuild and love my bike again.