Posted: Fri May 10, 2013 10:42 am
As far as I understand it, it's a professional polyurethane clearcoat in a can. There's a button on the bottom, that you have to punch in, which releases the hardener into the clear paint. Then you shake for 2 minutes to mix the two parts before spraying. Once mixed the can says you have to use it within 24 hours, but users have posted that you really only have 12 before the stuff starts clogging the nozzle and splattering. (I imagine that if you took the time to wipe the spray head with a lacquer thinner periodically and after shooting as you put the can down, between shoots, the stuff won't collect at the nozzle and maybe you could let the can sit longer before it's unusable. You could also try the invert-and-spray-till-clear-gas-comes-out method, but I don't know if this is one of those fancy new cans that allows spraying at any angle--even upside down.)
So I'll have all the basecoat shot and be all set up to do one or two passes in one session with the clear, on a single perfect-for-painting day (65F to 75F, <55% humidity). The hardener causes the paint, once sprayed, to dry fast, hard and smooth. It's an automotive-quality paint, so I imagine it's quite gas-resistant. The seller recommends only "professionals" order the 2-part in a can, "because once applied, it's very difficult to remove." Sounds like a gas and oil resistant paint to me! :)
It's also made clear that you MUST use a respirator that filters isocyanates [Eye-so-SIGH-uh-nates](LIKE THIS ONE, NOT like this), and make sure it seals perfectly to your face, or you'll catch a central nervous system problem, or permanent asthma. I'm gonna have to shave my beard to do this job, because my facial hair will compromise the mask-to-face seal. BTW, while paint fumes usually have a strong smell, the isocyanates, the toxic component of the hardener, are odorless in themselves. I'm also going to wear gloves and get some Tyvek coveralls with hood and tape up my wrists, because the isos can also cause skin problems, and I don't want to take any chances.
For reference there's a lot of good general painting and prep info at PaintScratch.com if you look around the site.
So I'll have all the basecoat shot and be all set up to do one or two passes in one session with the clear, on a single perfect-for-painting day (65F to 75F, <55% humidity). The hardener causes the paint, once sprayed, to dry fast, hard and smooth. It's an automotive-quality paint, so I imagine it's quite gas-resistant. The seller recommends only "professionals" order the 2-part in a can, "because once applied, it's very difficult to remove." Sounds like a gas and oil resistant paint to me! :)
It's also made clear that you MUST use a respirator that filters isocyanates [Eye-so-SIGH-uh-nates](LIKE THIS ONE, NOT like this), and make sure it seals perfectly to your face, or you'll catch a central nervous system problem, or permanent asthma. I'm gonna have to shave my beard to do this job, because my facial hair will compromise the mask-to-face seal. BTW, while paint fumes usually have a strong smell, the isocyanates, the toxic component of the hardener, are odorless in themselves. I'm also going to wear gloves and get some Tyvek coveralls with hood and tape up my wrists, because the isos can also cause skin problems, and I don't want to take any chances.
For reference there's a lot of good general painting and prep info at PaintScratch.com if you look around the site.
I hope I answered the question. ;-)sarals wrote:Bob and Tom - that's a two part paint, so it should stand up to gas and oil - correct?

