I am placing this thread under the carburation section, but I am not sure what the problem is. I do know after checking my CL77's serial number it contains 666, I am beginning to believe that is a sign. Here is what I have done. Carbs have been rebuilt, three times. Right now the old jets have been reinstalled after cleaning. I do have new needles in the float valves and they are sealing. Floats are set dead on and there is no gas leaks into the bodies upon visual inspection and shaking the tar out of them. Because of richness I have the main needles set in the top groove and it runs better there. New plugs have been installed. (I have gone through a ten pack of NGK D8HA's) New points and condenser set up via ED Moore's tuning tips and advance checked with a timing light. The left points tend to be gapped somewhat above 14 to accommodate the best running and starting following the Moore tuning directions since that is where the final timing adjustment is made if I am reading the instructions correctly. The advance marks are dead on on both sides upon checking with the light. I have checked the compression warm and cold always with the throttle open and it is 148 to 150 on both cylinders and the bike kicks hard. There are new plug wires and caps. I have tried every carb adjustment known, mainly turning out. Here are the symptoms. The bike fouls plugs when you try to start it using the choke at all. Pull the plugs, clean them, they are wet when pulled, put them back and it fires right up and then comes the blue unburnt gas smoke, more from the left side than right. You ride the bike and goes like a bat out hell, I think the higher rev's keeps the plugs from fouling and the smoke reduces. When you pull the plugs after a ride, both plugs are snooty and black. Let it sit and you go through the fouling routine again. I believe it is running so rich gas may be bleeding into the oil. The level rises slightly and has a gas smell. Here are my alternatives:
A. Kill the machine in its sleep and go on with life.
B. Install the electronic ignition I have setting on the shelve and see if that helps.
C. Bit the bullet and pull the top end to really see what the ring condition is, or pay someone who has experience with these little overhead cam monsters to do it for me. (Not an option that makes my better half happy.)
D. Hope some of you helpful Honda experienced gear heads will have an answer or something else I can try.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.(Also valves have been checked twice and in adjustment.)
Last Post Before the Checkbook Comes OutJust some obvious things that get overlooked. Float level correct? Hole in one of the floats so carb is over filling with gas? Slides in correct carb, the cut out in the bottom of the slide should face towards the rear? overflow / vent tubes clear? Ed swears the nipples on the bottom of the cabs should not have hoses attached to them. You might want to remove air tubes, and see if gas is free flowing into cylinder when fuel is turned on.Barring any of that doing any good, maybe replacing carbs might be the way to go.
davomoto
Britman, You need to contact C.N. He has a post in the "ignition" section. Mabey you guys could share the expense of a box of dynamite and some fuse!
Really I feel your pain,could be somthing is being overlooked in the carbs. Can you get your hands on a known good set? Just to see if that is it. I'd really hate to see you tear down an engine that has good compression and has had the valves set and the ignition set just right etc. Trouble shooting is a process of elimination sure, but common sense should lead you to a problem too. At least that is what I keep telling myself when I'm in it knee deep! Go back to the carbs. Good Luck. Steve Greer Thanks for the intervention Guys. I will keep plugging. Dave, the floats are set according to spec's and I can't find any leaks. Yes, the slides are finally in the right carbs and cut outs facing toward the rear. (That was a fun issue until I found out that little bit of info.) There are no hoses on the vent tubes. Kustom I have already been searching ebay for another set of carbs, but may try new floats first. I know the answer is out there, it just has to be found. I will start on the cosmetic issues now, it's going to take allot to make it pretty. Maybe paint and stripper fumes will bring answer I need.
Electrical?I know assume is a bad word but have you checked the charging and electrical system? I know this can be a very important part of rich running issues. Ed has some great tips on batteries and charging systems.
Good luck Jon Re: Electrical?FG Only with the usual basic tests. Voltmeter on battery while revving. Volts do go up and headlight does get brighter on higher RP M's. I have bought the Radio Shack Wave Bridge Rectifier for replacing the selenium rectifier, but I have not done the change over yet. When you check the spark with the plug out and grounded, it is strong. That is also the reason I have not put the EI system back in the bike. I wanted to make sure all bases were covered before taking a chance on shorting the system. Thanks Jon for the input and I will be exploring all avenues as long as the patience holds out. I have also had some great info come in via PM's so there is hope.
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