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Sloppy Shifter - how to fix or remove/replace

Clutch, Transmission, Drive Chain, Sprockets
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Bob Dale
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:27 am
Location: Houston

Sloppy Shifter - how to fix or remove/replace

Post by Bob Dale » Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:53 am

The shifter on my 66 CA77 Dream is extremely loose on the shaft and in fact the toe end fallls down to about the 8 oclock position unless it it held firmly by hand against the motor housing. I am thinking that the spline on the shaft must be damaged but I cant get the thing off to look at it. I have removed the bolt that tightens it but I cant remove it from the shaft. What am I missing?

Hahnda
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Post by Hahnda » Tue Sep 11, 2007 12:56 pm

With the bolt removed it should pull off with a little wiggling. Mine is a little loose, I just live with it I guess.

djohns
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Location: Deer Park, Texas

Post by djohns » Tue Sep 11, 2007 2:36 pm

Sometimes the bolt rubs the splines on the shaft. Try GENTLY opening the gap up on the shifter some and them wiggle. If the splines are damaged a little this will allow the shifter to pass over due to the greater clearance. If it continues on as sloppy it will only get worse, and then you have to change out the shifter shaft (no fun) or drill through the shifter and shaft and pin it which does not last long either.

Bob Dale
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Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:27 am
Location: Houston

Post by Bob Dale » Wed Sep 12, 2007 1:18 pm

You were right about the bolt rubbing the splines. I got the shifter off and there is a fairly deep & wide traugh cut into the shaft that is causing the shifter to have no place to hold its footing. I assume that it will need to be replaced but I havent been able to get the case off to see how big of a job that is. My Bill Silver cd hasnt arrived yet and I need new impact driver bits to get the case open so i am out of commission for a few days. I guess the "pin" method would require also drilling a hole through the shifter and then cotter pinning through it? I dont see that working with the deep crevice that is carved into this shaft. I am wondering if something like JB Weld might work to fill the gap? I will be replacing the clutch plates and checking the trans for other wear/tear so I would prefer to just replce the part if possible so as to not need to break it down again later.

djohns
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Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2006 9:07 pm
Location: Deer Park, Texas

Post by djohns » Sun Sep 16, 2007 8:27 pm

The trough you mention is where the bolt passes the shaft to squeeze the shifter and keep it from coming off. Its supposed to be there. However if the splines are bad on either the shifter or shaft it will slip. I have done the pin routine before and it is a temp fix. Drill the shifter off the bike (hard metal) and then drill the shaft with the shifter in position. Use a steel roll pin through the hole. Best option is to replace the shaft when you open for the clutch.

Bob Dale
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Posts: 66
Joined: Tue Sep 11, 2007 9:27 am
Location: Houston

Post by Bob Dale » Mon Nov 19, 2007 9:38 pm

This fix has worked very well for me: I tapped a hole straight into the center of the shaft and inserted a machine screw with a washer that is just large enough to keep the shifter snug on the spline. It's not going to win any restoration awards but it works.
Attachments
IMG_7280.jpg

Phil-UK
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Post by Phil-UK » Fri Dec 21, 2007 6:21 am

Hi
I've got the same problem and found I could reduce a lot of the play by putting a strip of thin copper
sheet end on to the shaft ( NOT around it ) and then tapping the gear lever gently back on.
This means the sheet fills the gap between the male and female parts of the spline.
Only problem is it gradually gets sloppy again and if you remove the gear lever then you need to replace the copper sheet.
All you see from the outside is a thin strip of copper showing on the end of the shaft.

I'd also recommend keeping an eye open for modern Ducati gear change bits at autojumbles.
They use bolt up rose joints unlike the normal Japanese peened over mechanism. All you need to
do is buy a suitable length of alloy bar and tap 6mm R/H and L/H threads and bolt the rose joints
into the original CB72/77 pedal and lever.
Gives less slop and better adjustment and you can go back to the original clevis fitting if originality is needed.

Merry Xmas

Phil

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